beyond infinity table - the interactive coffee table for the modern age - interactive table for sc

beyond infinity table - the interactive coffee table for the modern age - interactive table for schools

by:ITATOUCH     2020-04-02
beyond infinity table - the interactive coffee table for the modern age  -  interactive table for schools
Infinity Table is a beautiful interactive coffee Table that will surprise and confuse you, maybe just a little dizzy!
Stains, clear coating and engraving on the sides to provide an excellent finished look.
It features more than 960 LEDs, each with 24-bit color controlled separately.
The LEDs make up a total of 40 independent unlimited mirrors, eventually forming an awesome coffee table.
There are 4 hidden USB ports in this table, and each port can be fully charged 2A.
In addition, it is equipped with an induction charging board clearly marked with laser engraving.
Most importantly, for those who want to plug in a laptop or two to charge, there is a 2 Port AC outlet.
The last feature is a hidden touch screen LCD with full control over the functions of the table.
From setting simple modes to playing Pac games --man (
This is not the easiest thing to do once I have time to program).
Program with Arduino and run on Teensy 3.
1. new features are strongly encouraged!
Make a table and let me see what you came up! --------------------------------------------------------
Shout out to those people who have helped me: Savin P.
Used to help a bunch of people cut parts, assemble tables, and help assemble parts drawings. Nathan H.
Because he lent me his house and took some beautiful pictures. --------------------------------------------------------
This design is an ongoing work.
I will update the change log when I go.
At the time of writing this, the biggest thing that still needs to be done is programming, which is quite simple due to time constraints.
Still, I will work very hard to add new super cool features like playing Pac-
Add text features as well as other LCD and lighting features.
* It is important that * this note is not prepared for a weak heart.
You need to have very good woodworking skills, electrical skills, and the ability to adapt to any defects or difficulties during assembly.
This is a challenging building, but it is a very rewarding building for those who are willing to try it
Drop, put a plug on the coffee table!
I can print any parts you may want for this instructable 3D on the 3D hub!
Order 3D printing from BeefyByDesign * important. This is a very difficult statement.
It takes a lot of time and effort in this regard.
This is definitely your guide if you want to challenge yourself.
Expectations must be adapted to changes and difficulties.
I will do my best to help/respond, but I usually have a lot of things to do, so don't expect a super quick response.
The main instructions in this manual depend heavily on the use of CAD drawings.
The drawings show individual parts and components, which you must be able to explain in order to build the table. Skills-
Need to be able to read and build CAD models and drawings-
Be able to design your own parts if you want to make a change --
Shop Equipment-
Have some confidence in wiring and programming(Helpful)
Able to open the CAD model in case the drawing is difficult to explain------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The tools and tools you will need and simplify some of your projects include :-Chop Saw-Table Saw-Table router-
Excellent skills for CNC router or laser cutting machine or manual router3D Printer (
Helpful but not required)
Gadgets you need/have help :-
Soldering iron/stripping machine-Hot glue gun-Dremel-Drill-
All kinds of pliers and the like, I would definitely miss something if I thought of something else important. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You need a bunch of small things like wires, screws, breadboards, brackets, etc. etc.
Most of the things you can buy at Home Depot or McmasterCarr.
For now, although I will stick to the important things and update the appendix with the full BOM when I have time.
These are the big/main parts you need :-(180$)Wood. Lots of it.
I use red oak as the outer edge and Poplar/Pine as part that is not directly seen.
Use drawings to determine the size and quantity of the wood you need.
Note: If you buy beautiful wood from a place like Lowes/Home Depot.
Depending on what/where you get, you can definitely reduce the cost.
Detailed BOM of Wood: 0. 5"x5. 5 "x 36" Pine x21. 5"x1. 5 "x 48" Pine x21. 5"x1. 5 "x 36" Pine x20. 5"x1. 5 "x 48" Pine x205"x1. 5 "x 36" Pine x20. 5"x1.
5 "x 48" Red Oak x205"x2.
5 "x 36" Red Oak x40. 5"x2.
5 "x 48" Red Oak x205"x3.
5 "x 36" Red Oak x205"x5.
5 "x 36" Red Oak x20
Birch plywood X1-5 "x 48" x 36"(20$)
2'x3 ft 1/4 mirror from Lowes-(110$)
2'x3 ft 1/8 "one way mirror for canal plastic-(60$)
2'x3 ft 3/16 tempered glass pieces from local glass shops (
Sit in a mirror to prevent scratches.
Or, you can get the same thing from McMaster
If your local glass shop doesn't bring it, take it out of the polycarbonate. )-(35$)
2'x' 3' ft 1/16 PVC sheet from McMaster-Carr (
Note that if the slot on the bottom panel part is too high/too low, you need to adjust these thicknesses so that it supports acrylic properly.
My one is too high so I ended up using 1/32 instead of 1/16. )-(30$ x 4)
4 M 60 LED/m addressable LED strips from Amazon or anywhere else (16meters total)-(20$)Teensy 3. 1-(40$)
Adafruit TFT touch screen display-(30$)(OPTIONAL)
Inductive charging board and circuit-(45$ x 2)HSN-300-
5A Meanwell 5 V 250 w psu in Jameco(42$)
USB programming cable (male/male)
USB extender (x2)
, USB panel installation port (x2)-(24$)
Usb ac to 5 V for total output 40 w(12$)(OPTIONAL)
5 v to 12 v converter if you want to run the cooling fan.
The maximum power of the Led pull is 288 W, and the design of Meanwells does not need to be cooled under these loads, so you should be fine. -(40$)
A variety of other things such as wires, breadboards, tape, magnets, etc.
Total cost: about $850. The following CAD models and drawings should show all the parts needed to make the table.
These components show how tables are combined together.
* Important * there must be some errors on CAD drawings, which is a bit surprising
The danger of the moment.
In the next week or two, I will clean up the files and make a final version that matches all the parts I use to prevent any confusion.
Currently, I include all the files I currently have and will add the final version when it's done.
Make all parts according to CAD drawings.
I have recommended some places for pilot holes and mentioned them in various places that are not necessarily perfect.
Don't be discouraged if a part is not perfect. I had to re-
I cut a few parts because my size is not very suitable.
Hey, I'm an electrical engineer, not Ron Swanson, let me take a break; ). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For detailed instructions on manufacturing parts, see Appendix C.
Check whether the parts are suitable according to the assembly.
Before you start assembling things, you'll want to make sure everything is well combined, as it's easier to make adjustments and changes before assembling things.
Complete your part as you like.
For me, I route the edges to a simple circular edge, polish them, dye, coat transparently, and finish with 1500 of the sand to get a very smooth surface. --------------------------------------------------------
For the top edges, I carved them with a CNC router.
If you're not familiar with the process, here's how I did it.
Carving Craft-
CNC router is coated with vinyl on transparent coated parts.
I found that vinyl work is best not to peel off when carving parts, and will stick together even if the details are fine.
Engraving with V-bit CNC.
I used my favorite online and V-
Carved into patterns.
Cover any exposed surface you don't want with painter tape.
Choose Spray paint according to your color.
Wait to dry and peel off vinyl/tape.
Optional finish with another clear coat. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For more details on finishing and engraving, see Appendix C.
The component consists of the following parts: bottom _ short.
Alimjledden_bottomside_long2. pdfUSBMount.
Dxftopcut _ cover. dxfUChannel. stl--------------------------------------------------------
Use the bottom of the assembly drawing. pdf--------------------------------------------------------Pg1)
Looking at the assemblyPg2)
Starting from assembling the frame around the mirror, the reflective surface faces toward the groove. Pg3)
Next, assemble the second frame under the mirror, and the two sides below it.
The corner edges should match. Pg4)
Assemble the sides to the bottom.
The installed USBs are shown in this drawing, but please keep this step until the legs are connected. Pg5)
Install power supply, fan (optional)
AC plug on one side.
You can install the magnet now or wait until later.
Note that there are several magnets in the top assembly, but they are shown here. Pg6)
Glue the UChannel heat onto the UChannel cut.
One side of the middle row is empty, so make sure both sides are different. Pg7)
Finally, you will be in U-
In a winding passagezag pattern. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For more details on the bottom of the Assembly, see Appendix D.
The component consists of the following: legs1. pdfLegs2. pdfShelf. pdf--------------------------------------------------------
Use assembly drawing legs.
Pdf of assembled legs.
Use the assembly drawing Main.
Connect the bottom to the pdf page 2 of the leg. --------------------------------------------------------Pg1)
Looking at the assemblyPg2)
Connect each set of angular brackets with the same leg height to any height you want.
I used 5 "from the bottom ". Pg3)
As shown in the figure, use the bottom bracket to connect the shelf. --------------------------------------------------------Pg2)
Connect the bottom to the leg as shown on the second page of Main. pdf. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For more details on assembling the legs, see Appendix D.
Follow the attached wiring diagram. --------------------------------------------------------
The LED light strips are not very suitable, so a small amount of wires need to be cut and added to make them perfectly aligned with 6 lines on each side.
See the picture for details.
In this mode, you will need to cut 120 LEDs and then weld back with extra wire length.
6, 12, 6, you can fold into two and a half 12 long.
Before inserting the channel, cover the exposed pads on the lower side of the strip as needed.
I will connect the controller first, put the basic test program on it first, so that you can add the LED light strip on it, and then connect and test each light strip. --------------------------------------------------------
Programming is very basic at the moment, the only feature I have time to program is the rainbow pattern.
The rest are sample programs from the Octows2811 Library.
Follow the instructions of at to set up Teensy to use with Arduino. --------------------------------------------------------
For details on cabling and assembly of cabling into the table, see Appendix D.
The component consists of the following: topsidepanel _ long.
Shoptopcut_cover. dxf--------------------------------------------------------
Use the top of the assembly drawing.
Assemble the pdf at the top.
Complete with assembly drawing Main. pdf--------------------------------------------------------Top. pdfPg1)
Overall view of the Pg2 component)
Start by connecting 4 side panels together.
Use some thin tape to connect topcut_cover.
Provide dxf parts to the side.
The lips at the top should keep the one-way mirror and tempered glass in place.
You can wait until you connect the top to the bottom before putting these in. Main. pdfPg3)
Now install the USB part shown in the bottom Assembly because the legs are connected. Pg4)
As shown in the figure, 90 degree bracket is installed with 0.
5 "gap at the top of both sides.
The top should be well placed on the stand on both sides.
You need to install the magnet on the top shown in the bottom assembly to complete. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For details on the top of the assembly form, see Appendix D.
If you have taken this step successfully, I would like to extend my warm congratulation to you!
This is certainly not a simple statement, but you have accepted the challenge and succeeded.
Show off your work now!
Feel free to share if you have added features, or made some other version of the code, or have any tips/tricks to help others!
I will add them to the appendix so that others can benefit from your work.
Go out for a party now and try not to stare at your amazing new modern art work in a daze.
Below is the entire folder I currently have for table CAD.
Ver 1 will be released soon.
0, this will be the final CAD model for any extra garbage I 've cleaned up.
Also attached all the photos I took when I assembled the table. First Tip! Ask questions.
I am sure there will be a lot as this work goes on. Second Tip!
Please be patient with me.
I have a full time job working on multiple projects at the same time, so it may take a few days to get back to you. ---------------------------------------------------------
By first doing a short section on the wrong end to prevent the chip from exploding at the edge of the wiring.
First, put the right end of the motherboard into the router, and then enter it very slowly.
Be careful because the board will catch and try to escape.
Once you do this, feed the board into the wiring edge from the left hand side as usual.
This section includes some more detailed instructions on how to make the above CAD drawings specifically, for those who may need some detailed instructions. --------------------------------------------------------
Bottom _ short. pdf x2-Start with 0.
5 "thick plate, I use 5.
5 "by 36" long wooden boards ".
Cut to 26 with chop saw. 5" long.
Trim to 5 using desktop saw. 25" wide.
Set the chop saw to a 45 degree angle and cut 1.
Come in from each edge.
I suggest cutting it too short (I. E. 1. 25")
Trim the part slowly until the correct size is cut out.
To get the fan and AC socket cutouts, use the bottom cutouts.
Cut on a CNC router or laser cutter.
Note that all you need to do is do this on one board and the other can ignore the fan and AC socket cutouts.
Drill the holes on the edge to the size diameter of the magnet you bought, in which case I have 8mm magnets instead of 6mm.
You don't have to drill too deep, just put a magnet or two in the hole.
Finally, drill the various upper and lower holes shown. The 1" and 0.
5 "holes are not necessarily perfect.
2 "holes are all pilot holes so they are the only ones that matter.
From the edge of the board (note .
2 "the hole is determined according to the size of the screw. A .
125 "will work well with smaller screws).
Short bottom. pdf x2-
This part is an outer surface, so I made it with red oak.
I have already bought 2 pieces. 5" wide and 0.
5 "thick, cut it to 26 with a chop saw. 5".
I then route the edges with 1/4 bits on the desktop router.
Just make sure your height is set correctly on your desktop router to make sure you get a smooth cut (
Tips on preventing blowout).
Route only the two edges shown on the drawing.
To complete, see completion at the end of this appendix.
If you would like to engrave it, please see engraving at the end of this appendix.
Pdf x2jledden_BottomInnerPanel_Short. pdf x2-
Start with two 1. 5"x1.
5 "square plate 48" long, two 36 "long.
Trim the boards on the table to 1 "x 1 ".
Cut to 37 with chop saw. 5" and 25. 5".
Set the chop saw to a 45 degree angle and follow the same procedure as bottombase _ short.
Prevent excessive cutting of pdf of parts.
Cut some pilot holes on the two angle cuts you make, they don't need specific measurements, just enough to keep the frame together later.
Do the same thing along a few points on the wood, about.
25 "from the edge of the long edge of the plate.
Set up your desktop router with 1/4 straight bits.
Measure the height to 1/4 above the table and cut 1/4 deep on the wood.
Set your table router to stop.
4 "from the edge of bit ".
As shown in the figure, cut the slot into wood with short edges of the wood.
Finally, in.
4 "thick edges of the slot for future wiring.
As seen in the photos, they don't have to be too perfect.
Pdf x2jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Short. pdf x2-
Start with two 1. 5"x0.
5 "board 48" long, two 36 "long.
Trim to 1 "wide with a table saw.
Cut to 38 with chop saw. 5" and 26. 5" long.
Set the chop saw to 45 degrees and trim the edges in the same way as bottombase _ short.
Pdf, but cut 1 only in not 1. 5".
Finally, drill some pilot holes on the short side of jledden _ bottomacspace _ long.
Pdf aligned with the pilot hole on jledden _ bottominner _ long. pdf.
Jledden_BottomInnerPanel_Short does the same thing.
Pdf and jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Short. pdf.
The two angle cuts on them should be aligned with their matching parts.
For jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Short.
Add some larger 0 to the Pdf.
Line up to 5 "holes in 0.
The hole you make at the bottom. pdf.
Jledden_BottomSide_Long1. pdf x4-
This is the outer film, so I use red oak.
I use the leftover material at the bottom.
Make pdf of these parts.
Cut your remaining board into 4 pieces with a chop saw. 25" long.
Drill out holes that show enough depth for the magnet, about 1. 25"-.
25 "depending on the magnet you use, the depth.
The edge of the route display.
Edges should be easy to do except 0. 5" thick edge.
For this I would suggest using only track or Sander and freedom-
Give the smooth edge to your part.
To complete, see completion at the end of this appendix.
Jledden_BottomSide_Long2. pdf x2-
This is another exterior, so it is made with red oak. Start with a 2. 5"x0.
5 "board, 48" long.
Trim the board to only 2 "wide.
Cut to 38 with chop saw. 5" long.
Follow the same instructions as bottomside _ short to route the two sides, as shown in the figure. pdf.
To complete, see completion at the end of this appendix.
If you would like to engrave it, please see engraving at the end of this appendix.
Jledden _ uchannel. pdf x96-
This is very simple.
Just 3D print UChannel. stl file.
I use translucent material. Clear.
100% fill print with 4 wall thickness. Leg1. pdf x4-
This is another exterior, so I use red oak.
I used two boards. 5"x0. 5"x36".
Use a chop saw to cut the required number of boards into 17 pieces. 5" long.
Wiring the 2 edges shown on the drawing is the same as before.
See finishing at the end of the appendix. Leg2. pdf x4-
This is another exterior, so I use red oak.
I used two boards. 5"x0. 5"x36".
Trim the board to 3 "wide using a table saw.
Use the chop saw to cut the required number of boards into 17 pieces. 5".
The 3 edges shown on the roadmap are the same as before.
See finishing at the end of the appendix. Shelf. pdf x1-
To do this, you can use a simple birch plywood cut to 45 "x25. 5".
If you want to do the same as me, I cut two pieces into 45 "x12.
5 "and 1 piece to only 45" x0. 5".
Then I painted them in different colors.
To finish them, I used a 36 "x6" board below to keep them together.
TopSidePanel_Long. pdf x2-
I use red oak. this is a top surface.
Start with 1 piece. 5"x0. 5"x48".
Cut to 38 with chop saw. 5" long.
Set the chop saw to a 45 degree angle and use the bottom _ short method.
Trim the edges to the appropriate length.
Drill some pilot holes on 45 degree cutting.
Then use a larger drill bit from the long edge for chamfer/pocket cutting.
This will allow your screw head to sit inside the wood so that it will not interfere when assembling the assembly from the top to the bottom.
To finish it, put a lip on the short side of the board.
Cut the lip of 1/4 "from the edge, and cut it into, unlike the drawing.
1875 "from the bottom of the wood ".
To clarify, this means that you will cut a slot. 25" deep by . 3125" thick.
PM me if this is not clear.
TopSidePanel_Short. pdf x2-
Another surface, so it is made with red oak. Use a 5. 5"x0. 5"x36" board.
Reduce the size to 5 using a table saw. 25" wide.
Trim to 26 using a chop saw. 5" long.
Set the chop saw to a 45 degree angle and trim the board as before.
Do a slot like you did on topsidepanel _ long. pdf.
End by queuing topsidepanel _ long.
The Pdf edge goes to the edge of this section and uses the pilot hole you made on topsidepanel _ long.
Pdf add pilot holes for this part. Screen. stlx1-
3D printing this part in the color of your choice.
I used 100% of the filling material as much as I could. Topcut _ cover. dxf x4-
Use a CNC router or a laser cutting machine to cut this part of the material from the 1/16.
Black is the best but I have to use the gray PVC as it is the only material I can finish this project fast enough. USBMount. dxf x2-
Use some fragments of your 1. 5"x0.
5 "make USB stand.
Cut your scrap into 3 pieces. 75" long.
Placed in a CNC router or laser cutting machine to cut a given dxf.
See finishing at the end of the appendix. --------------------------------------------------------Engraving-
You have two options if you want to carve the edges of the part.
Can laser engraving, can also CNC line.
If you know how to use a laser engraving/cutter then it's very simple to do so I won't write it all down here.
However, it can be a bit tricky to carve the CNC wiring and then draw a specific color, so I'm going to outline the process here.
First make sure your part is done as described below.
Cut some simple vinyl adhesive or transfer paper into roughly the same width as the part.
Apply vinyl to the board using a hard scraper.
Place in the CNC router and use V-bit. I used V-
Engraving software, you can easily convert the image into engraving.
I just found a engraving on Google that I like and used V-
Carved on board.
If you don't have the software to do this, I suggest you take the path of laser engraving as it is much simpler.
After engraving, cover any exposed wood with painter tape.
Paint your parts in the color you choose.
I use black but gold and copper also look sweet.
After drying, peel off all the tape and vinyl.
Now there's a sweet carving on your parts! Finishing-
It takes a little work to complete the part.
First thoroughly polish all parts with 400 sandpaper.
I used red oak (the stain you chose)
I know it's in Red Oak. . . . ).
After dyeing, brush your clear coating.
After doing it for about an hour, throw another coat there and throw it again.
I wear 3 coats in total.
After the final coating is dry, use 1500 sandpaper to make sure your transparent coating is beautiful and smooth.
This last part is only needed when your clear coat is cheap and likes to bubble like mine.
This section includes some more detailed instructions on how to assemble tables specifically according to CAD drawings, for those who may need some detailed instructions. --------------------------------------------------------Step 6 Details-
Use the accessory jledden_BottomInnerPanel_Long.
Pdf and jledden_BottomInnerPanel_Short.
Make a pdf of the frame of the mirror.
Start by screwing 2 of the short piece to 1 of the long piece, and the angle is shown in the figure.
Make sure all slots on the side of the part are in the same direction.
Then take the 1/4 thick 2'x3 mirror, slide into the slot on the part, the surface of the Mirror is facing the side, the slot is used for wiring. -
Assemble an auxiliary frame consisting of jledden _ bottominnerspace _ long.
Pdf and jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Short.
The Pdf is displayed at the bottom together.
Pdf of assembly diagram, page 3.
Screw bottom _ short.
Pdf of this secondary framework.
If you follow the drilling procedure in Appendix C, the angled cuts should all be aligned.
Connect this auxiliary frame to the mirror frame component shown on the second page at the bottom. pdf.
Again, if you drill the pilot holes according to Appendix C, this should all be queued. -
Next, you will want to assemble some 90-degree brackets into the bottom _ shortbrackets.
Pdf and jledden _ bottomside _ long2. pdf.
It doesn't matter where they go, but I put one at each end of the board and one in the middle.
Make sure the brackets are 0.
5 "from the edge of the part ".
If you can't find a 90 degree bracket with a length of only 1/2, I have attached an STL file (Part4. stl)
You can print what you can use.
Once these components are connected to each side, assemble them into the current component as shown on page 4 at the bottom. pdf.
The edge of the part should be aligned with the side/edge of the current part. -
Assemble the power supply and fan to the base.
The fan should row to your pilot hole.
The power supply is not that important, just make sure you don't interfere with the fan or AC outlet.
Screw to the bottom _ short.
Pdf, as shown on page 5 at the bottom. pdf.
Finally, continue to stick your magnet to the bottom with hot glue.
Pdf of hot glue.
I stick the magnet to the hammer, apply hot glue to the hole, then press the magnet in with the hammer. -
Hot glue UChannel.
From stl to topcut_cover. dxf.
Do this by applying 3 points of glue on the UChannel and then pressing on the cut until the glue cools down.
One side will have 5 extra channels on only half of the cut.
Trim off the excess glue to make the parts look fairly clean.
Place the cut in the top of the mirror in the current assembly, as shown on page 6 at the bottom. pdf. -
Finally, you will run the led in the Channel with a zigzag pattern.
For adjusting the LED light strips to be properly installed in the Channel and in the right direction to install them, please refer to Step 8. --------------------------------------------------------Step 7 Details-
Measuring height-0.
"You want your shelf there.
I want my baby at 5.
5 "leave the ground, so I measured 5 at the bottom of the leg1 ". pdf and Leg2. pdf.
I then used a 90 degree standard bracket from Home Depot as shown in the second page of leg. pdf.
Assemble the leg1 with it. pdf and Leg2. pdf together. -
After all 4 pieces are assembled, unscrew the shelf.
Pdf to the bottom bracket of each leg, as shown in the leg on page 3. pdf. -
Use the pilot hole at the bottom.
The Pdf connects the components in step 6 to the current component in step 7. --------------------------------------------------------Step 8 Details-
Operate according to the wiring diagram provided.
Start by connecting the AC power supply to both.
The switch on the AC port controls the power supply to the line voltage.
You have to connect this yourself on the AC port.
It's hard to see from the picture, but connect the pin labeled L to the switch, and then connect the switch to the L on the power supply.
For E and N, you can connect them directly to the power supply from the AC port.
To maintain the same ground potential, connect V-using an 18ga wire-
Together from two power supplies.
Adjust the output so V on the power match using the potentiometer on each power supply.
Run 12Ga wires from the power supply through the space between jledden _ bottominner _ long.
Pdf and jledden _ bottomside _ long2. pdf.
As shown in the figure, connect the 18ga wire to the 12ga wire before entering the wire through the Channel. -
You need to cut the LED light strip and add wires between cuts to make sure the LED is arranged properly in the Channel.
For more information, see additional pictures in step 8 and follow the cuts listed in step 8 to do so.
This is definitely the painful part and I intend to improve in the future.
Before inserting the LED into the channel, add some electronic tape at the bottom to prevent exposed labels from short-circuiting on other LED light strips.
Insert the led into the channel as shown in step 8. -
After inserting the LED strips into the channel, splice them into the power cord you previously ran.
In order to connect it to the micro controller, you also have to run some data lines to get out of the side, as shown in the figure.
Note: connect both ends of the LED light strip to the power supply and ground, which will prevent serious voltage drop in the center of the light strip when pulling a large amount of current.
In addition, splicing the DOUT to the ground on the last LED will reduce the noise on the data line. -
Connect all the pins as shown in the diagram.
Note that you must add additional ws2811 on each line.
This is a problem with the Octows2811 Library.
You don't have this problem if you use the FastLED library, but the led has more flickering than the octows2811.
I found the Octows2811 to be of better quality, so I connected the extra LED needed for it to work properly. -
Important: D-
One of the micro/D pins to the external USB ports.
I do this by cutting a micro USB cable and splicing it with an external port wire.
This will allow you to program the micro-controller after the table is fully assembled. -
Finally, follow the instructions on how to program with Arduino.
A basic program is provided to test your table. --------------------------------------------------------Step 9 Details-
Attach topsidepanel _ long.
Pdf and topsidepanel _ short.
Through the pilot holes drilled in the manufacturing process, the pdf is transmitted to each other.
This will give you a frame with lips inside.
Connect topcut_cover with the same thin tape.
The dxf of this frame, so when you install it to the rest of the table, they remain the same. -
Continue to install the USBMount.
Use some 90 degree brackets to display dxf at the bottom.
Set the part slightly from the edge so that the screws you use to assemble the panel to install the USB port do not interfere with jledden _ bottomside _ long1. pdf.
This will correspond to the third page of Main. pdf. -
Assemble some more 90 degree brackets as shown on page 4 of Main.
Bottom _ short pdf. pdf, exactly 0.
Offset 5 "from the edge ".
This will serve as support for top-level components.
Put the top component of the first part of Step 9 into the rest of the table. -
Finally, put your one-way acrylic mirror on your lips, and then put 3/16 tempered glass on it. Change Log:--------------------------------------------------------7/29/17-
Snake code and SlowFade code were added to Step 8.
Added the gif of the upcoming snake game program 5/29/207-
Instructures messed up the change log and rewritten it.
Sorry, not sure what the full change log is until then.
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