So how many of you have seen interactive tables over $150 per square foot?
So you look weird, try putting some numbers on it and realize it's too expensive.
It would be nice to have a cheap and easy way. . .
Say something with 1000 LEDs, maybe like a 24x48 table, yes, good now, but the price for the whole thing is less than $50?
That must be impossible. . . or is it?
Yes, just follow this simpe Instructure.
If you can weld, use a hot glue gun, drill holes and keep it smooth at a local pharmacy, then it's quite possible.
So there is no further addition here. P.
If you are trying to do so, I am not responsible for any damage to yourself or any of your property.
This may involve high power, hot material and severe mental stress, OK maybe not the last one, but it is very dangerous if you try it without knowing the power beforehand
Video: So you need some supplies first. 1.
Welding and soldering iron. 2.
Hot glue and hot glue guns. 3.
The led you can choose, the color and quantity is up to you, but the ordeing of 1000 s is the cheapest and ebay is the best source. 4.
A high voltage power supply, I. e.
Disposable cameras, if you go to a local pharmacy, they will most likely give you used for free. 5.
Peg board, homedepot is perfect for this 24x48 bed sheet for $6. 6.
Infrared LEDs, order a certain amount depending on how big the table you want.
Usually, every 12x12 square 4. 7.
Infrared sensors, here is a link, they have the best price.
We will discuss it later. Optional1.
A power tester capable of withstand a voltage of 300 V. 2.
TIP31 transistor. 3. A speaker set. 4.
Separation of Heaphone. i. e.
1 male to 2 female headphone plugs.
OK, now you have the hard task of soldering 1000 LEDs.
So, how do you start, collect your blue and infrared LEDs, make sure they are separated, take each one now, bend the leads to the bottom at a 90 degree angle, then bend up to half the end of the lead, as shown in the figure.
You can do this in advance or in your building.
After that, list your battle strategy on the back of the motherboard and you want to design a design that fits around 90 LEDs per segment.
Or you can calculate in some way that you can calculate in 300 ~ How much 314 v runs depends on the number of draws per draw.
Simply divide the voltage of each LED by 300, then it's time to loot the village. (
In order to keep this simple and cheap, I will not use resistors for them, although it is highly recommended that you use the Google resistor calculator if you have time, you can try to figure out how big the resistors need to be, but I never got the hang of how to do it).
So with each run 90 times, they are very smart and almost hard to see.
In addition, the board will run in series, so the led will be placed in a position with the beginning of the positive lead (
Then let the positive lead of the next LED connect to the negative lead on the previous LED, as for the connection line, there is an example in the picture. (
Google will give you a better idea of the search for the "led Series. ")
Do this usually a few rows at a time, then stick them together, and when the glue is soft, flip it over and try to tie anything off the center, that's why you only do a few at a time so you have time to move them.
Now you can connect all of these LEDs, it is better to weld before a period of time is finished, you will want a good hot soldering iron, the battery operated by the battery cannot be welded quickly and easily, if you are familiar with the iron, you will notice that it flows better with a very hot iron plug than with a fast and small cordless iron, I have both, and side by side is a big difference.
So, back on track, you can fold the leads and let them overlap, as shown in the figure, and then quickly touch a little bit of solder to the iron to connect the leads.
Once you get the hang of it, it will take the longest time to cancel
Roll your solder and move on.
After that, all you need to do is wiring the sensor and the power supply.
For the IR lights you want to drill individual holes on the board to pass through, and then parallel them to the adjacent LED, I didn't do that because the IR LED didn't show up in time.
This is the best part of "flexible no microprocessor! ! !
The easiest way is to connect the sensor from the material page to the LEDs, and as for the discussion, the carefull viewer will notice that the maximum voltage on the site is 70 v, but it may be higher. . .
A lot of higer said 300.
This sounds dangerous, but they do not show signs of pressure or heating during operation.
You will want to drill through the board at the center of each section, preferably from the front so that you will get a clean hole in the front ,(
I did not do it)
The shorter lead then is the voltage input, and the longer lead is the voltage output, which means that when illuminated with IR light, it allows the voltage to flow out of the longer lead. (
I don't know how it works, but I 'd love to hear it if anyone is willing to explain. )
You want the sensor to interrupt the forward voltage, so from the forward lead on the camera to the sensor input lead, and from the output sensor lead to the forward lead on the LED segment.
Then connect from the negative lead on the LED segment to the negative lead on the camera.
There is an example in the photo.
You also want to make sure you don't touch any leads and make sure to flash the camera by rotating the small gear above the movie window and push the White small bar forward (
On this model, it is just below the image of the remaining wheel.
Alternatively, press the shutter button above if you have a shutter button.
Then use the rubber handle screwdriver to short-circuit the lead of the capacitor, be careful that the spark will fly and do not touch any other lead except the 2 capacitor leads.
Then weld the flash button together so it can be turned on permanently.
Now you have the option to connect each camera to your own clip, or you can connect up to 4 clips together, but ti doesn't want to have more than 4 clips due to the drawing on the camera.
Plug the battery into the camera and listen to the story sound of the catcher charging.
When the voltage is high enough, they fade even in normal light, or because the device emits random IR light without lighting.
Then either wave your hand,
If built-in infrared LEDs are used)
Or point an infrared light source to it, such as an infrared remote control for a single infrared light, night vision camera or TV, to watch the simple magic. (
The laser and other lights will also activate it. )
So you now have a fully functional $180 business group for less than $50.
There are also videos here.
Also, I decided to make a brand new instructures instead of the second part, so there is also a link to that part here.
Please feel free to express your thoughts and opinions here or at the beginning.
Guide to Happinessing, everyone!
The main reason for this note is also the Epilog Laser challenge, and I would like to be able to make parts to create more "my stuff" and other great projects or even sell some of my other ideas