alien xenomorph costume - opaque projector

In one's life, there was a moment when he had to put aside the dream of having alien costumes in his childhood and actually decided to do something about it.
Ever since I was a kid I wanted an alien costume and after my experience I decided to try my luck. On Halloween 2011, I carved the foam in beetle.
I told myself that if I could carve the head and make it look cool, I would consider making the whole outfit.
Hey, if you don't have time to wear a full outfit, you have an alien head hanging on your cloak.
It all started with a bubble. . .
Tools: scissors Fabric scissors slow glue gunHigh temp glue GunDremel drill bit with a variety of bitsCaulk gunmannein BustHeat GunMaterials: foam board insulation (
Carving head, back tube, back Ridge)
Liquid Nail for foam board (Back pipes)Fleece vest (chest)
Support rods of various sizes (
Pipes in the chest, neck, legs, feet)
Vacuum cleaner hose (
Details of shoulder, chest, tail)
Foam insulation pipe (
Shoulder, ribs, Details)
Rubber insulated pipe (tail base)
Bicycle helmet (Head)Black fabric (neck)
Strong industrial magic (
Rib, breastbone, loose back, neck)
Foam (
Details of tail, leg, chest)
One pair of trousers or leggings (legs)Fleece gloves (for hands)Black cord (
Details of hands, chest and legs)Mercer (
Installation of tail base (tail)
Black military belt (tail)
PVC pipe installed on the banner holder. (Tail)
2 wooden piles (Back pipes)
Various screws and washers (Back pipes)
Black nylon strap (feet)Epifoam (
Tail spike, shoulder shape, various supports)
I know my girlfriend very well (
Go as Ripley)
Initial setup: Block: step 1: I went to my local hardware store and bought a thin piece of insulating foam and a tube of liquid nails to glue this foam board.
Then I measured my head and figured out how wide the alien's head needs to be to sit on my head like a helmet.
Then I stuck the board together with a liquid nail.
I stuck four pieces and made a big piece to dry it up overnight.
Note: Looking back, I will add a piece to the top and stick horizontally to the four ends to help with the smooth arch of the head at a higher level, but while I am working, what I have.
Step 2: I have an opaque projector and I found a profile picture of the alien head I want to make and project it onto the foam, so the head fits the length of the block I made.
For this step, you can eye the projector is not necessary.
This helps me determine the slope of the head, as well as the location and details of the shape details of the side mouth and pipe of the head, which I drew with a Sharpie.
Step 3: Then I took a drywall handsaw, cut off the rough shape of the head, carved the hard edges on the top to bring the shape closer to the required dome.
I then took a retractable razor and went ahead and cut the edges and fine-tuned the details to the desired shape.
For final smoothing, I used medium roughness sandpaper and those grinding blocks to smooth the dome.
Step 4: for the Oral and Dental areas, I use the Dremel drill bit to carve the details.
I even managed to make a second tongue on the inside of my mouth with a stable hand, but a mistake made me have to scrape off more front teeth than expected.
I think I can always drill my teeth out and replace them with teeth made of air
If I want, dry the clay later.
I chose the strap to connect the headIn The Hat method.
Originally intended to open a hole in my head on the lower side, but it turned out to be tight enough.
The close connection of the head is very important because the partial pleasure of having 3ft head is able to move quickly.
I went to an auction in the yard and bought a bike helmet and trimmed the sides and the straps and the middle parts were intact.
It's essentially a strap.
On Mohawk, a bubble that looks silly.
Then, I am eager to take out a slot in the alien's head to install the bike helmet and stick it inside, and then add a layer of spray foam insulation to achieve good results.
Then, once it is cured, I cut it and polish it into shape.
The strap of the helmet is adjustable and fits under the chin.
I left the back of the helmet, the hanging down part, intact and can help support when moving the head.
I then added fabric to the edge of the head hole that would hang down and cover my head and form the neck.
I then added a few foam tubes to my neck and sprayed some stripe details.
I opened the front of my neck and the two tubes stuck my face together and closed the neck similar to the hat.
I was going to show it-
Through a piece of fabric in this hole, but I decided it would be easier to wear a "invisible" hood under my neck, thus covering my face, but still letting me see it.
Because the neck is mostly covered by the shoulder and mouth I didn't spend much time highlighting it because it would be hidden anyway, people will look for other places besides their neck in clothing anyway.
When I made the block for the dome for the first time, I glued four pieces horizontally, but I should add a block to the top to help make the dome more rounded.
If you look at the first image of the head, you'll see the top flatten and I'm trying to fix it by adding a small bump to the front.
Well, the more I look, the more I can't stand it, so I decided to enlarge my head to get the proper arch of the dome.
I messed up the order of things when I did it, dear reader, you benefited from my hind legs --sight.
I first decided to fill the space with Bondo and fill the head with Bondo, but this adds weight to the head, but it opens once it is opened.
I then cover the top of the head with a large gap spray foam insulation, wait for it to dry, and then trim off the excess until it reaches the desired shape.
I then sanded it with sandpaper, covered it with several layers of Bondo and sealed it up.
Then, I put a layer of black enamel on it and put it outside to dry because of the hot weather. . . OH NO!
When I came back later, I found that the black paint had heated the foam so much that there were several serious cracks at the top of the head due to the expansion of the foam!
Then it took me a few days to add a small amount of Bondo and enamel and polish it down to make the cracks disappear. Ugh!
For the bottom of the chest, I decided to use the wool vest I purchased at Salvation Army.
Looking into the future, I thought of Halloween, and I would drive to the party, in this costume, the high round shoulders and the tubes that stretch out the back of the costume make driving difficult, not to mention in the car, so I decided to wear a vest to remove the whole chest.
I have a human body model torso and if you can get it, or something like that, it turns out to be priceless in this building, I recommend it.
You also need some industrial glue sticks that will not expire at Walmart.
I use a brown color of milk, which is fast and strong.
First of all, I removed the zipper on my vest and replaced it with an industrial strength Velcro strap.
It would be best to look back at the zipper, but since I want to cover the zipper, the chest is seamless, so I want to stick Velcro to the front.
There will be more later.
However, I will try to keep the zipper if I can.
Then I took a RIB tube that I used to use to connect the computer cable together and cut it into strips and heat it up
Stick them to the vest and make tubes that can run under the chest ribs.
Wool has proven to be very good at accepting and gluing glue.
You can see here that I stuck the split foam tube to the ribs.
I need strong, lightweight parts to support the shoulder, so I chose a thin foam and I cut it into a curve that fits my shoulder so it is strong.
This is made of hot glue.
You can also see here that I added the details of the chest and shoulders with the flaky foam that is hot glued to it.
Once eperfoam was in place, I took the black foam insulation tube and stuck it together along the top curve of the shoulder.
I gradually narrowed down from one end and made it look like it slipped into the chest to make it look more accurate and smooth.
Epifoam couldn't absorb the paint very well so I covered it with black fabric and I heated itglued on.
I used a lot of glue on the curved edge because the tube was under pressure from the arc and I wanted to make sure it would stay.
I covered this edge with his seams and added a layer of detail and plumbing to this area that looks great.
Since the back tube is attached to the vest and is made of rigid foam, it is impossible to sit in the car while wearing the vest.
As I explained earlier, I turned off the zipper of the vest and replaced it with Velcro.
I sew the first two straps on the zipper.
Then, I added another one on the one facing the chest.
This piece is a separate strap that slides in the middle of the chest to make the chest look like a solid piece.
I took a vacuum cutter hose and cut it in half.
I then cut the foam support bar in half and stick it inside the tube.
They flipped over and I cut off the chest detail part that I stuck to the proper position to correspond to the space between the ribs.
Where the edge drops, I have attached the Velcro tag so it sticks together firmly.
As a part of the overall connection, it is easily stripped away while achieving the maximum effect.
The pipes are tricky because they have a unique but different curve.
Many people let the exact shape of the pipe go halfway, but I want to be as accurate as possible.
I stared again with a piece of foam, two pieces wide and one piece horizontal on top;
This gives the rise and width of the pipe wave appearance after creation.
I drew the shape on the side of the block, once dry, like a head, carving out the basic shape with a handsaw, gradually refining the shape by switching to a retractable razor, finish the smoothness with sandpaper and sandpaper blocks.
For the pipe details, I drew the shape with sharpie and then on the grid line.
I use a cylinder shape to tilt at the edge of this shape to make it look like it's under the outside of the pipe.
Then I drilled every line with Dremel.
Then I drilled holes at the end of the tube.
The pieces are then coated with two layers of flat black porcelain paint for later spraying.
The pipe is then placed behind the chest
Trim the pieces and their bases at the right angle, and let them stick out correctly from the torso.
On the inside of the chest, I put fine strips of foam, although I would use something like a clay sheet so that the pipes had a rigid base so they wouldn't swing back and forth.
It needs to be thin, but because it is sandwiched between the wearer's back and the vest.
I drilled holes in the mud tile at the center of the pipe.
Then I took some long screws and washers and poked the screws out from the inside to the outside to drill onto the stake.
I drilled a hollow tube in the tube about the diameter of the pin.
I fill the pipe hole with the liquid nail adhesive and slide the pipe.
I also applied the adhesive to the bottom of the pipe so that it would attach to the Clay Stone.
I did it overnight.
When drawing tubular foam, there are two important things to remember: paint will worsen the foam and fall off when rubbing.
It doesn't matter because the foam is gray and the area they are in looks good, just like the gray one, but if I use the neon green pool side. . .
I'm in trouble.
I ended up painting a few flat black enamel layers on my ribs and shoulders.
This way it forms a shell, the same as the head, so some of the paint will attach to it, it will not fall off like a paint, or fall off like a completely non-adhesive latex.
The quality of the paint work depends on the time you want to invest.
I did mine very quickly as I will wear this dress on Halloween night or in dim places, I joked that I need enough detail for people to understand the main shape and the rest
If you look at the clothes that aliens wear these suits are black body suits, with only a few parts stuck on their arms, when illuminated by dim light, these sections provide enough information and details, which is enough.
The arm is part of the underwear and part of the stomach.
This part is relatively simple compared to the rest of the garment, as it is all simple surface details.
The tubes and details are made by sticking black ropes to the sleeves.
The round panel on the bicep and forearm is cut into shape and stick to the fleece piece on it.
The elbow bumps are made of foam, so it sticks out, but it doesn't break if it touches anything.
The Al parts are then sprayed in black and they are dry with gray paint for details.
When you come to this stage, you have to decide whether the tail will drag on the ground or choose the lazy look of the lift.
Both have their own advantages and disadvantages: dragging the tail: Advantages: there is no fancy rigging to attach it to your ass.
If you need to be in a tight space like an elevator, you can pick it up and hold it.
Will not hit the face.
The weight of the tail is not a problem.
Cons: one can step on it, not as impressive as the raised moving tail.
Raised tail: Pro: looks cool and adds a level of movement and living to the outfit.
You can hit somebody's face.
Cons: You can hit somebody else's face.
When you turn around, be sure to be very clear about the environment around you.
Make a quick turn difficult.
The rigging is more complex due to increased weight.
That being said, because I didn't have enough things to do, I chose to do the look of the lift.
I 've seen videos of some costumes that raise the tail and look great, so I think I can always decide to drag it on the ground if I try this and fail.
The inside of the tail is a piece of PVC and I melt it into the "S" shape.
I made it smaller than the length of the tail so that the tail would swing more.
In order to attach the tail to my waist, I chose a rotating flag holder that you can use on the side of the house.
It has a butterfly nut on it that allows me to change the angle of the tail to leave the body.
This thing is very light.
Great for weight and PVC.
I suggest that when the PVC is in place for additional support, pass the screw through the bracket and PVC and reduce the likelihood that it will fall off.
I made the tail with black rubber pipe insulation and I cut a long gap from it, so when I stuck it together, it gradually tip.
I think the rubber is the best option if the last tail has to be dragged.
And then I stuck this heat together, half of it.
The external plastic pipe part of the pipe extending along the tail length.
Spike is made on epifoam.
I want to make it clear in shape, but given that it will be dangling behind me, I need it to be soft/sturdy material so that if it hits something, it won't hurt anyone or break.
This piece is carved out and then glued to the end of the tail with tape.
Because the paint doesn't attach well to epifoam, I covered the shape with gaffers tape because it has a black matte finish instead of the gloss of the tape.
I cut out the repeated segmented shape from the thin foam so that it doesn't add weight to the tail, but sticks around it.
After all this, I carefully screwed my tail to the curved PVC pipe.
While I do have some freedom with shapes, it's the part where alien action Maps really come in handy, and I'm trying to keep the main shapes and ideas real with the original design.
I started with another plastic rib vacuum tube and cut it in half and stuck it to the shirt.
Then I covered the end with the ball Root, radish shape that I entered with the tube.
I stuck it down too.
The second root part below also includes the part hanging under the bottom of the shirt.
The reason for this is that all the plumbing business is not broken in the design, so I want all the business to be able to run together, the idea is, if I build it as a whole, it will hang on the groin of the pants and connect to the pants through Velcro.
The war in this section is actually just a matter of cutting the pieces and gluing them down.
The gray RIB tube is the foam tube I cut in half and then add the groove to it using the dremel drill bit.
All the stomachs are foam, allowing me to be flexible and light when sitting.
Legs are surface details like arms.
I chose a black cargo pants because I didn't want any fabric that would stretch and cause the glue or foam to fall off.
Also, due to time and preference, I chose the rib section on my thighs and lower legs instead of making a patch for the fluffy.
I made a stripe template and sprayed it on the design with the ribs.
It works very well too.
All the tubes and textures on the pants are sprayed again in black and then highlighted with gray spray paint or drypipe --
Brush it with acrylic resin.
I added the Velcro bar on the inside of the leg and when added it folds the pants and makes it look tight as the pants are a bit loose and don't look right.
This helps simplify the legs.
I also added two pieces of industrial strength Velcro to the crotch on both sides of the zipper, corresponding to the debris on the back of the stomach piece.
This makes it so that when I twist, the stomach doesn't jump around and actually bends and gives it a more organic look.
When I first started the project there was a pair of latex xenomph hands on eBay and I didn't buy it and I kicked it today.
But in the end, I made my hand like everything else, which was more satisfying.
Unfortunately, I didn't take a lot of photos for the process of this step, so I tried to keep the description helpful.
Start: the bottom of these gloves is Wal-Mart's Black wool gloves.
I would like to keep the black wool as it matches perfectly with the chest in detail.
Even though the gloves are L/XL, they feel tight and I don't want my hands to be too hot, so I cut off a thin layer of Su and wool inside to make the gloves more spacious.
Fingertips: I initially tried to do foam finger extensions, but they were not strong enough.
I have also played with the idea of those latex Halloween witch fingers, but they are not long enough.
Finally, I bought some rigid latex skeleton gloves from the Spirit Halloween store.
I cut off the finger at the end and hot glued the fingertips of the wool gloves.
I then cover them with black wool as I know the latex will be painted.
Details: The rib textured strip on the handmade top I found on JoAnne fabrics was made with the attached fabric.
I bought it because I thought I could do it.
Brush it to get the detail look of the ribs, but that doesn't work.
However, it still needs good paint and it looks good once the hands are painted.
To hide the edges and make it look more polished, I glued a simple black nylon rope around the edges of these parts.
This also helps to draw textures and details while allowing the gloves to remain flexible.
Claws: made of a space filled foam tube, I cut out the shape of the claws and simply glue them at the end.
I chose this because I wanted them to look beautiful, but I didn't want to risk stabbing a child in the eye on Halloween.
This foam is hard enough to maintain the shape, but also flexible enough, so it will bend when it hits.
I can also keep its natural color to help highlight the claws in the dark.
Extra thumb: If I go with Alien-style Xenomorph, I can go with the big 3-
In that movie, the two big fingers are actually connected by two long fingers.
However, I had to choose 6-since I was going to pursue the classic look-
Two fingers together, two thumbs.
I didn't get these features to work out, they look a bit funny if I hold a fist, but they look great if my hands open.
I ended up carving a basic thumb shape from epifoam and covering it with flaky foam. (
I could have covered it with black wool, saving time but not)
Then I stuck it to the other side of my palm, where my actual thumb was, painting the foam black with paint.
Again, the foam keeps it light in weight and can withstand a blow if it gets hit on something.
Once the finger is made, the proportion of the hand disappears.
The fingers are long, but the palms look small.
To offset this look, I decided to go online with my fingers a little.
I took the elastic fabric and cut it into "V" shape and stuck it together with my fingers.
Not only does this leave the movement of your fingers unrestricted, but when you open your fingers and the film stretches with your movements, it gives a cool look.
This also makes the hand look bigger and more spectacular.
A good but not a must except hand. Final touch-
Ups: once it's all glued together, there's a black spray paint on the whole thing (
Enamel on the foam part without claws)
I then add details and colors with a simple gray primer and dry brush some on the black wire with a gray acrylic.
Think after the fact: it's worth not scrawling with glue here, because when you paint in gray, the paint will stick to the brighter glue, because it's smooth and not textured, so it can leave spots.
It doesn't matter in the dark, but the perfectionist in my heart noticed it.
Many people choose to buy an old pair of shoes.
But after looking for a few months, I couldn't find my size black shoes in a second-hand store, and I didn't want to buy new shoes for the butcher either.
I chose to slide.
Cover the route so they can be the shell on my feet without sacrificing any shoes.
In the shoes, I cut the nylon straps, wrapped them up where I wanted them, and stuck them on the other strap.
On the straps around the heel, I stick to a Velcro, so they slide down from the back.
I made sure there were enough straps to cross.
Through the top of the shoe so there will be a lot of places to stick the tube
The toes are placed on top while still allowing flexibility.
On the strap, I stick to a piece of black wool to cover the shoes and provide enough surface to glue the pipe details of the foot.
After drilling out the sewing line on the support Rod pipe, I cut them in half and glued them to it with low temperature heat.
I want my feet to stick out a little so they are proportional to the costume, but I'm not going to stumble over it.
I stuck a piece of foam on the top of my foot that came down from both sides to form the shape of the ankle so that part of the foot would not be so empty and would not have meat.
I then cut a part from the support bar and cut one end in a quarter round shape.
At the other end, I made a "V" cut to stick the two pieces together to form a circular toe shape.
Then I cut my nails with foam and stick them to the end of my toes.
This is the one step I care about most because it can make clothes or break them.
Luckily, the result was good, and that's how it works: I went to an Army/Navy surplus store and bought myself a thick military belt with eyelets on it, this is essential for connecting a horse to it without losing power.
Pick up some small nuts and bolts from the hardware section.
I bought a Clay Stone from the art store.
Originally, I was going to turn marsunnie into a T-Bone shape.
When I was going to tie my belt, I knew that the weight of the tail would pull the horse loose (
Called "platform" since then ")
Down, it's important that when a piece is pressed on my ass, it hangs down and adds extra support.
However, I didn't want something of clay-plastic stone, so I kept it intact in the initial trial just to see how it worked.
Through the eyelet on the belt, I marked the spots on the stone and then drilled the hole with dreemel.
I then pass the nut through the hole from the back so that the Bolt does not drill to my back when the worm appears.
At the top of the belt, I then screw on the flagpole holder that makes up the top of the tail, which is the anchor point for it.
The PVC on the inside of the tail is inserted into the flagpole holder and fixed with the puller on his body and several other crew members for good results.
The holder is then screwed on the Belt and passed through the mud stone to give it a solid platform with a lot of surface area to support.
Initially I was going to put the bricklayer outside my pants, but after trying on the tail and the belt, I realized it made more sense to put it in my pants.
The mountain is not very big, no problem just poke it out between the pants and the shirt.
This is good because it saves me more work and allows a large support base to keep the tail in place without anything else.
I did, however, do so, and put the sand under the tip of the stone rock, so that they would not dig me by accident or otherwise.
Although the belt worn with the pants is too big, the belt ring on the pants is too big, so it will wear it under the shirt and on the pants itself.
Its only purpose is to catch the tail, not the pants.
This is ideal for me as I would like the tail to be disassembled in case I have to drive any tail.
It's time to finally put on your clothes!
Here are some photos of the suit taken in the dark.
I think, because it will be worn at night, I should shoot in case of insufficient light to get the effect of details etc.
I see very clearly that the only real obstacle to the dress is that I have to know where the tail is so that I don't knock anything over.
It was a great experience and I learned a lot.
The last thing is to release it on Halloween Street.
If you are reading the article and are keen to make your own Xenomorph costume, I hope this manual will be helpful and enriching to give you some ideas that you may not have considered in the first place.
I hope, as I saw when I planned to make this dress, it will inspire you to do great things.
Thank you for your attention! Best,-