back to the future model delorean interactive display - interactive display

While Sun Star's return to future 1:18 delonen model itself is great, I really want to hear the sound clips in the movie, every time I walk through my showcase, I will see some fire under the action of the tire.
Using Arduino and Adarfruit Wave Shield, I can press the button to play the music and references in the movie.
Also, I installed a few LED lights under the model and cracked one
Cabinet light so it can be controlled by my Arduino.
My settings not only play the sound, the led also lights up DeLorean from the corresponding clip.
Now, my system plays 13 different clips taken from all three movies.
The finale is a fully choreographed light show of the BTTF theme song!
Watch my video and see if it's working!
This does not have to be used for BTTF models.
You can use these same technologies to add lighting to any model of car display box.
In addition, you can add sound clips from any TV show or movie to complement your specific model on your monitor. Under these LED
The cabinet light for Rite Lite is very cool and easy to crack so you can control it with Arduino.
First, unscrew the back cover of the lamp.
Cut all wires away from the main PCB in light.
Unscrew the PCB and remove it with the power button.
In addition, remove the wire that connects the PCB to the battery stand.
I have two different versions of this lamp, which is why there are two lights in different colors (
One gray, one white).
Just now there should be a pair of wires for each lamp head.
If you connect and-
The led lights up from the head to the power cord.
You have a lot of flexibility here.
All four lights can be controlled by one pin on the Arduino, or each pin can be controlled separately.
For my monitor I chose to control the two lamp heads with one pin so I had a separate left and right top light.
Welding and-
Connect from the two lamp heads you want to control at the same time, and then weld on the extension cord long enough to reach the Arduino.
Feed the wire through an empty button hole.
I measured the voltage and current of each lamp head before and after connecting to the circuit board with my multimeter.
When the lamp is connected to a 5 v power supply, the circuit board is removed, and the current and LEDs flowing to the LEDs are higher than those used out of the box. I added two 8.
Each of the two power cables has a 2 ohm 1 Watt resistor for protecting LEDs.
To make the lights easier to install, I organized and wired the wires with tape.
I might make a separate note on the hacking of this light.
Once the lamp is connected, install it above the model using the hardware that comes with the lamp.
Also, drill a hole in the back of the shelf so you can feed the wires to the Arduino/breadboard.
If you don't have diffuse LEDs, you can polish each LED with fine sand sandpaper until they look blurry and spread them yourself.
I highly recommend this one!
It turned out that I didn't do this, and the lights were too bright.
Measure and drill 14 Orange holes on the base (fire)LEDs.
These should be consistent with the tires.
I also drill holes for four blue LEDs for some extra effects.
I installed these at the back of each tire so that they are not affected by direct vision.
Use the input voltage of 4.
5 V, 14 fire-fighting led must be connected in a 2x7 array using a 27 ohm resistor.
Four blue LEDs must be connected in parallel using a 68 ohm resistor.
Fix the LEDs in place using hot glue.
Once the display case is wired and ready, drill a hole in the back of the bookcase to run the wires.
Place the case on the shelf and connect the wire to the Arduino.
The btf iii model on the rail track comes with a plastic base.
Since I parked my car on the rail track, the plastic base is perfect for supporting my BTFF II car in the flight configuration.
I glued it hot to the bottom of the display case.
Once it was stuck on the display cabinet, I drilled five holes for the blue LEDs.
One behind each wheel, one in the middle.
Again, these blue LEDs must be connected in parallel using a 68 ohm resistor.
Be sure to keep all wires and LED leads as flat as possible until the bottom of the case so it can be placed on top of the bttf I case.
Once connected, this box can be placed at the top of the bttf I display box.
I put these wires through the hole I drilled in the previous step.
You can use any button, but I use this specific button because it looks cool and will glow.
Blue LED built-in resistor-
Already used in 3 to 6 v
I connect the button in such a way that only 3 leads have to be connected to my Arduino.
Separate the 5 v wire from the and NO1 leads on the button (see diagram). Solder the -
Ground wire-button lead.
Welding signal wire (
Green in picture)
Lead to C1 button.
Second, a month between solder k-
Ground and signal lines.
Finally, cover all exposed wires using hot packs and electrical tape.
There should be three wires attached to the Arduino/breadboard from your button, which will allow the use of the button and power the LED.
Connection and-
Wire and-fixed 5 v pin-
The ground pin on the breadboard.
Power is always needed for these wires!
I connect the signal cable of the button to pin 7 on the Arduino.
Drill a hole in the shelf and let the button rest.
Also, drill a hole in the back of the shelf so you can feed the wires to the Arduino.
The bttf iii model came with such a detailed base that I didn't want to take it off and put it in a separate display case like the other models.
I searched a bunch of hobby shops, but I couldn't find a display cabinet large enough to accommodate a base that wasn't too big.
The closest I found was the case of the trumpeter 1/18, which was still a bit too small, but larger than the case of IMEX.
I decided to sacrifice the trumpeter and make a custom case with the Sun Star BTTF base and the trumpeter display cover.
The cover for the entire base is not long enough, so I had to trim it with the Dremel tool.
After a lot of speculation and checking, I got the cover covering the base.
I used a radio shed adjustable voltage DC power adapter set to 6 v to power all the equipment.
On the Adafruit breadboard power supply, I set the voltage of the adjustable rail to 5 v.
Instead of using a separate power supply or battery to power the Arduino, I powered it from the bread board power supply.
I sacrifice the battery stand by cutting off the barrel connector.
I welded the short solid core wire to the end of the connector so that it can be inserted directly into the breadboard.
I attached it to the unregulated voltage rail of the breadboard.
Because LEDs have a very high power, you need to use transistors so you can power them with a breadboard power supply.
I'm using 2N2222 pnjunction transistors from Radio shack.
Connect the Arduino's pin connection to the bottom of the transistor (center pin).
A resistor needs to be added between the pin line and the transistor center pin (see picture).
Pin the collector (rightmost pin)to ground.
Connect the positive lead of the LED wire to the 5 v of the power supply.
Connect the negative lead of the same LED to the transistor emitter (leftmost pin).
Make sure the flat face of the transistor is facing you.
To determine what resistance to use, I did a lot of experiments to get the correct brightness and voltage/current of the led.
For this I used a combination of 480 Ohm, 220 ohm and 510 ohm resistors.
I connect the LEDs to the following Arduino pins: define fire 6 define small_blue 16 define big _ blue 17 define light_left 18 define light_right 19Wav File: you need to do this in wave
I got some of my voice clips from here: I also went straight from blu-
Use the ray disc of audacity.
There is a great tutorial on making and converting files to use with wav shields on the Adaruit website.
If you are going to make a clip for the wave shield, I suggest you check it out.
In addition to the bttf I theme song, I have attached all wav files used in the program.
The theme song is too big to upload, but you can get it from that website.
If you dump them into your wav-blocked SD card, my program will be able to call and play them.
Now I have set up 13 different clips.
I loop through different segments using the case switch structure.
I am using a pair of cheap Logitech computer speakers.
I bought some plugged into a wall power outlet because they won't be that loud when powered by a wave shield.
There is a headphone jack on the Wave shield and the speakers can be plugged in.
Code: I took the wave shield sample code and picked out the part needed to play the wav file.
Make sure to play files ()
The command is completed instead of playing ()command.
You can't execute the command if you call playcomplete (). Playfile()
On the other hand, you can drive the led when the wav file plays.
For example, if I want to play remote control.
Wav, I will use the command: playfile ("REMOTE~1. WAV");
I am not the best programmer in the world, so I believe my code can be improved.
I didn't use anything fancy to control the lights, it was just a good delay ()commands.
It's a very tedious job to sync the lights with the music, but I didn't find a better way.
There is an example on the Adafruit website where the code can automatically light up the lights depending on the volume of the audio, but that doesn't give me good results.
I also programmed a timer in the program and changed the state of the light after a few minutes of no activity (
No one press the button).
I can't get it.
The ino file to upload, so I put the code intxt file.
Sorry, some of my code is not saved.
The last 1/3 of the lights for the theme song choreography are not in the code I uploaded.
I will try to redo this code when I have a chance.