How to make DIY 2 k resolution (2560x1440)beam projector.
Original post in my blogger (link1 & link2)
Poor English in my Korean blog.
A lot of the necessary things are from China and I am lucky to get them in Korea.
You can use the "AliExpress.
Com "to get most of the parts.
In my case, I used "Taobao ".
Because it is usually cheaper than AliExpress. com.
Check the LCD before assembling the chassis.
You will get HDMI and LCD.
For convenience, I ordered cable for extension cord (around 10 cm)
Simple extension cord.
When I command the LCD to separate from the blue light, I have to press and hold the backlight connector to check the LCD.
Design your case after checking the LCD.
You can skip this step if you are willing to use my AutoCAD file.
Or, modify the file according to your thing. 1.
Let the whole case prepare the arcryl part according to the AutoCAD file.
Assemble the shells using small joint parts and permanently glue them using "goproform.
Do not apply methane on the upper cover, the upper cover will be fixed by headless screws. 2.
Make the "Fresnel lens holder" and the Fresnel lens will be placed inside the shell.
First, the fresnel lens holder is maintained by the "fresnel lens holder", and then the fresnel lens holder is placed in the LCD Holder and the fresnel lens holder.
When making the fresnel lens holder, the shiny lines of the lazer cut should be polished to prevent diffuse light reflection, which will result in poor image quality.
Or you can simply connect the Micro
Sandpaper on shiny lines.
This is the most important step in my opinion.
The inactive area of the small LCD is very small (bezel)
Therefore, it is difficult to maintain the LCD correctly while preventing light leakage.
After measuring the size of the LCD "precisely", I designed the LCD bracket to prevent light leakage and ensure the quality of the image.
If you make the LCD holder roughly, you end up with an ugly leak image as shown in the figure. (
I failed to make this version once before. )
According to my drawings, you will find that there are three parts to build the LCD bracket.
The two parts are permanently maintained LCD, and the part is temporarily maintained LCD.
You will find out how to keep the LCD by tracking the uploaded picture.
Be careful not to touch the LCD with your raw hands and your fingerprints will make you cry.
Use nitryl gloves when handling LCD.
Whether you choose a regular LED or a fancy LED (CBT-140)
, The way to connect the LED on the heat pipe is the same. (CBT-
Recently adopted 140, so the picture is mixed with the traditional LED version. )
Basically, you need to tap the M3 screw on the heat pipe to keep the LED. (
Or the seller provides the screw holes ready).
Place the hot grease on the back of the LED and connect the LED with a bolt.
Then, properly keep the condenser lens in front of the LED.
Many sellers offer the right tools to fix the condenser lens.
I installed the fan controller but you can skip this if you don't want to control the fan speed.
The basic wiring is as follows: I installed many cooling fans to cool the LCD.
LCD near LED (
110 ~ About 130mm).
If your LCD is not cool enough, you will see black spots on the LCD.
The LED releases a lot of heat.
I tested with the "no" cooling fan of the LCD and after many black spots appeared, the LCD was dead.
Please install small (cute)
Cooling LCD with Fan and universal fan.
In the uploaded picture, you will see the air circulation strategy.
Of course, you may have the idea of better air circulation.
Please share if you have knowledge.
After the wiring is complete, then test the LED.
There is an appropriate spacing between the LED and the rear fresnel lens (F120)
, LED lights will cover the entire active area of the LCD.
When placing a fresnel lens, the groove sides of the fresnel lens must face the LCD.
When you do the DIY projector for the first time, you can easily make mistakes at this step.
You may wonder why I chose the F120/F185 fresnel lens for the F190 projection lens.
The answer is that the optical system in DIY is not perfect, and there are
Updated portfolio in DIY projector group.
In short, the current lens combination works fine when we use the 6 inch LCD.
Alternatively, a combination of longer throw distances can also work properly. (
For example, the F120/F220 mural with F230 projection lens can also work properly)
Obviously, the short throw distance will give you a big image size, and my combo throw distance is the shortest, but the effect is good. (
I may be wrong, but I have tested it with a lot of combinations)
Using a given lens set and a CBT-
140, you can distinguish every 2 k pixels at the same time.
Focus is even better than commercial products.
Anyway, we need a rule of thumb to adjust the lens spacing.
Since the optical system is not perfect, we need to adjust the lens spacing manually.
It depends on one person, but there are a few rough rules.
The good news is that once you use a LED with a small luminous area, you have enough profit margin.
So please don't choose cheap LED array just choose CBT-140. CBT-
As far as I know, 140 has the smallest luminous area in the existing market. Done!
Clean the room and enjoy the fun of the projector.
There are not many sources for 2 k. .
But you can at least enjoy the 2 k Trailer on youtube.
My next plan is to use a 4 k projector with a budget of under $1200.
I will share it with you if I succeed.
By the way, I don't use this 2 k projector right now. (
Currently I am using my other DIY FHD projector in my room)
This 2 k projector is used to test a few things for my next 4 k projector haha. .
I'm sorry about my projector.
Anyway, I hope this will help those who want to make their own projectors. See you!