diy wireless interactive touch board - interactive touch board

This project is about creating an interactive (touch)
Motherboard with modular and wireless features.
You might ask why someone wants to do this, and the answer is that the current interactive boards are wired, which means they have to be close to the computer they control.
Another problem with the current interactive motherboards is that their dimensions are fixed, which makes it difficult for them to move and static (
You have to buy a brand new smart board if you want a different size).
The last major problem with the interactive boards is that they are expensive and most of the cost is thousands of dollars, which makes them expensive and not available to most people.
With the creation of this interactive board, its wireless and modular features address size and wired limitations.
Considering that the interactive board costs $50, the price problem is reduced ($50)to produce.
The project focuses on creating an interactive touch interface using infrared sensors and transmitters.
This project involves many components, so to get started, it is better to look closely at how the main components are connected and how to communicate.
Each of the 4 sensor hubs is controlled by Arduino Nanos.
Nanos reads data from [24+]
Since Nanos has only 8 analog pins, the minimum number of sensors is 24, so the infrared photoelectric transistor through the multiplexing.
Nanos is running a program that analyzes the value of each sensor to determine if it should be treated as the point where the touch occurred.
After the analysis, each of the 4 sensor microcontrollers sends data to Pro Micro, which performs further analysis and moves the mouse to the sensor where the touch is detected.
4 Communication between Nanos and Pro Micro is achieved by using a radio transceiver.
Each of the 4 Nanos is programmed to provide power to at least 24 infrared transmitters that provide light to the photoelectric transistor.
When building such a system, the function of wireless interactive touch display can be realized;
Some software features are programmed in the system to avoid shadow settings for touch, but this will be introduced in the software section.
With a video I posted on YouTube, I can show the latest iteration of this wireless interactive touchpad in which I use it to do a task.
In the video, I use my fingers and pen as an input device for the touch interface.
In the second video, I showed the hardware used in the project and its modular features by resizing it by removing the extended hub. Cost-
One of the main drawbacks of the interactive touchpad is their cost, and the price of the TouchPad available today is around $1,000$5,000.
This is a price range that is not easily accessible to ordinary consumers, so when doing this project, I focus on cost as the main focus of my work.
The total cost of building this project is $50, which is $2,000
Reduce cost by 10,000%;
This price cut makes it easy for everyday consumers to get.
Compatibility-
Another problem with the interactive boards available commercially is that they lack universal compatibility.
The compatibility of these systems is hindered because they depend on the drivers that need to exist on the operating system of the computer they are connected.
The "drivers" in this system are basically embedded on Arduino chips that are involved in their operation.
This means that the system can run regardless of the operating system of the computer it controls.
Users do not need to download drivers online or install drivers from disk.
This is the definition of the plug. and-go.
Versatility
Another major problem with the current interactive touch systems is their lack of versatility, and the term has many meanings in the interactive touch system.
Versatility means the ability to seamlessly move the system from one area to another without worrying about it being heavy or bulky, which also means a wired connection between the interface and the computer it controls.
The wired connection between the two units inhibits the viable placement of each system.
This project depends on the wireless connection between the interface and the computer it controls, which means that the user's computer can be located in a different room from the computer they control.
Another factor in the versatility of this project is its modularity.
By dividing the interface into receiver and transmitter modules, it can be separated for easy storage and movement. 500 -
Bread plate line male-to-male connector Ebay144-
5mm infrared transmitter (940nm)Ebay144 -
5mm infrared photoelectric transistor (940nm)Ebay144 -
100 ohm resistor Ebay18-
4051 Texas Instruments multi-channel converter Ebay12-
Ebay7-840 bread plate
Ebay6-connector from panel female board to female board
100 ohm resistor Ebay5-
Wireless transceiver Ebay4-
Ebay4-10 uF capacitor
Ebay4-mini USB Type B connector
Arduino Nano v 3. 0 Ebay1 -
Arduino Pro Micro 3. 3V/8Mhz Ebay1 -
The Micro USB Type B connector EbayThe project needs to assemble 4 fairly similar sensor/transmitter circuits (
Will be called Hub 1-4)
Mouse circuit (
Will be referenced as Hub 5).
Fortunately, you don't have the task of designing these circuits (
This is my job J)
, I provided the circuit diagram to help with the assembly process, as well as to specify the code to run on each hub.
What you need is to follow the circuit diagram and build the circuit, then upload their respective programs and start using the interface. Hubs 1-
They all use Arduino Nano and contain infrared phototransistors and transmitters, which is very similar.
The job of these hubs is to create an XY grid of infrared sensors that send information to Hub 5 when hub 5 "thinks" there is a touch.
Hub 1-as mentioned earlier-
4 is similar in design, so their Fritzing diagram is similar, in addition to some differences in wiring, please pay attention to different wiring, especially the rest of the hubs 1 and 2
Hubs 1 and 2 are a little more complicated than hubs 3 and 4);
These differences are due to functional differences that will be explained later.
In the process of assembling the Hub 1-
4, it is wise to quote Fritzing 1-start
Since different charts represent different steps in the build process, more components are added to the breadboard.
The best way to build four hubs efficiently is to build 4 hubs at the same time instead of completing one and then moving to the next hub (
Start building all 4 at the same time and make equal progress on all 4 when observing the chart).
The Fritzing diagram containing details on how to build 5 hubs can be found in the images contained in this section (
Please refer to the note to determine which image is consistent with which step).
Please don't worry if the wire color that appears in the schematic matches. Step1 -
This is the first step in building the four major hubs, and they should all start like this.
The green ic marked 74 hc4051 represents a 4051 mux, and your ic should look exactly black despite the different look and wiring is the same. Step 2 -
This is the second step of 4 main hubs, in which we are just 1-
We have already started.
At this point, all hubs are the same on the cabling. Step 3 (Hubs 1 & 3)-
At this step, hubs 1 and 3 start to look different from 2 and 4, and hubs 1 and 3 are different in connecting photoelectric transistors to a multi-channel converter, so please make sure you make these adjustments only for 2 of the 4 circuits that are working.
The two circuits you make these adjustments will now be called "hubs 1 and 3 ". Step 3 (Hubs 2 & 4)-
In the last step (step 3 (hubs 1 &3))
We have adjusted the hubs 1 and 3 and now we have to make changes to the hubs 2 and 4 so that they are unique in 1 and 3.
Take the remaining circuit (1 & 3 not included)
And make the following adjustments.
The two circuits you make these adjustments will now be called "hubs 2 and 4 ". Step 4 (Hubs 1 & 3)-In Step 3 (Hubs 1 & 3)
, We have connected half of the multi-way converters with 4 photoelectric transistors, and now we will connect another 4 for each hub 1 and 3.
Please note that the previous connections we made on hubs 1 and 3 did not appear in this image and some connections were disconnected so that you can clearly see the connection of the second group of 4 transistors
In step 3, you should not remove the connection of the first 4 photoelectric transistors (Hubs 1 & 3)
, Just add these connections to the hub. Step 4 (Hubs 2 & 4)-In Step 4 (Hubs 2 & 4)
, We have connected half of the multi-way converters with 4 photoelectric transistors, and now we will connect another 4 for each hub 2 and 4.
Please note that the previous connections we made on hubs 2 and 4 did not appear in this image and some connections were disconnected so that you can clearly see the connection of the second group of 4 transistors
In step 3, you should not remove the connection of the first 4 photoelectric transistors (Hubs 2 & 4)
, Just add these connections to the hub. Step 5 (Hubs 1 & 3)-In step 4 (Hubs 1 & 3)
We have completed the connection of one multiplexing and eight corresponding photoelectric transistors.
Now, we'll connect the remaining 3 muters to the remaining 16 phototransistors in the same way, and we'll connect the first 8 to the first one.
This picture is packed with wires, but this is to show what the finished product of all the multi-way converters connected to the phototransistor should look like.
If you don't remember how to connect the rest of the phototransistors, please refer to Step 3 (Hubs 1 & 3)and step 4 (Hubs 1 & 3). Step 5 (Hubs 2 & 4)-In step 4 (Hubs 2 & 4)
We have completed the connection of one multiplexing and eight corresponding photoelectric transistors.
Now, we'll connect the remaining 3 muters to the remaining 16 phototransistors in the same way, and we'll connect the first 8 to the first one.
This picture is packed with wires, but this is to show what the finished product of all the multi-way converters connected to the phototransistor should look like.
If you don't remember how to connect the rest of the phototransistors, please refer to Step 3 (Hubs 2 & 4)and step 4 (Hubs 2 & 4). Hub 1 Modular -
In order to build a modular system, we need (
You can choose which of Hub 1 and 3 is "1" because they should be the same at this time)
This way it can accept more receiver hubs.
To do this, we expanded some connections and used male to female wires to hang the wires on the breadboard (
The male end should be in contact with the bread board, and the female end should be hung on the bread board).
As shown in the figure, we do this for 8 connections. Hub 2 Modular -
In order to build a modular system, we need (
You can choose which of Hub 2 and 4 is "2" because they should be the same at this point)
This way it can accept more receiver hubs.
To do this, we expanded some connections and used male to female wires to hang the wires on the breadboard (
The male end should be in contact with the bread board, and the female end should be hung on the bread board).
As shown in the figure, we do this for 8 connections. Hub 5 -
This is the wiring of Hub 5, which is the simplest wiring composed of Pro Micro and rf24l01.
You can use the parent jumper to connect the two devices together.
Receiver expansion module (Hub 1 & 2)-Hub 1 now-
4 wiring is complete, we can create extended receiver hubs that can be connected to hubs 1 and Hub 2 to increase the number of receivers on the system (
Effectively improve the physical resolution of the system).
We created an extension module with a multi-selector on the bun board.
Complete the connection of the multiplexing to the photoelectric transistor, just like the connection to the Hub 1 and its photoelectric transistor and the multiplexing.
Receiver expansion module (Hub 2)-
Hub 1 now-
4 wiring is complete, we can create extended receiver hubs that can be connected to hubs 1 and Hub 2 to increase the number of receivers on the system (
Effectively improve the physical resolution of the system).
We created an extension module with a multi-selector on the bun board.
Complete the connection of the multiplexing to the photoelectric transistor, just like the connection to the Hub 2 and its photoelectric transistor and the multiplexing.
Transmitter extension module (Hub 3 & 4)-
We have built the Hub 1-
Receiver extension modules for 4 and hub 1 and Hub 2, now we need to create transmitter extension modules for Hub 3 and hub 4.
The wiring of these modules is fairly simple, just make sure that the two wires are hung on both terminals as shown in the figure.
Create two of these circuits (For hubs 3 and 4)
And make sure they have two wires each in order to connect to their respective hubs.
Hub and extension module directions-
To properly locate the module and hub, I created a visualization tool that shows the relationship between the different modules.
Module center facing 1 is in the lower left corner, center 2 is in the lower right corner, center 3 is in the upper left corner and center 4 is in the upper right corner.
By connecting the receiver extension module to the respective hub, and the male head emitted from the extension matches the female head (
Visible by color coding of the figure)
And transmitter expansion, as well as the image of the Chinese side to their respective hubs (
Use color coding again to determine how to connect modules together).
The photos in this step help you to see the real life description of the module and its extensions connected together. Code -
After building a different hub and the extended circuit that comes with it, download the compressed file "touch _ interface" in this section ". zip".
In this archive, there are 5 programs that upload them to their respective hubs using the Arduino IDE. Code links (
If you do not want to download compressed archive files)
Usage of Hub 1 Hub 2 Hub 3 Hub 4 Hub 5-
In order to use the hub and its modules, it is necessary to open each of the Arduino (Hub’s)serial monitor.
In the code, there are commands that allow the user to calibrate the touch interface via serial communication (serial monitor).
After properly locating and turning on the serial monitor, send the letter "n" in the serial monitor corresponding to hub 1 "-4.
Make sure that the output of each hub has a table that matches the number of sensors it covers (
If the hub has a receiver extension module, the table should show 48 elements, otherwise it should be 24).
Send the command "ar" and create a shadow on the interface (
Do not block the path between the receiver and the transmitter)
, Create shadows on receiver and environment light only (
Not from the transmitter).
After 1 minute, the calibration will be completed, and 4 hubs will transfer touch data between themselves and the computers connected to Hub 5.
Hub 5 does not have to connect to the same computer hub 1-
4 is connected, but the serial monitor for Hub 5 must be turned on that computer. Conclusion -
In conclusion, we can use different circuit components to make our own interactive touch display, which has more functions than the one currently being produced.
Through the use of Arduino, we can improve the existing technology to solve different forms of technical problems. About me -
My name is Adellar Irankunda, a junior at Jefferson High School in Jefferson County, West Virginia.
Please contact me if you need help with this project or have any questions: addyirankunda @ gmail. com.