in london, eat your way through the history - and future - of fish and chips - digital billboard

Even in the warm October S, Frank Dobson Square is not suitable for a stay. This brick-
On the big piece of land paved in east London, the days have been better, especially since its center-1951 fish-bearing sculpture women in Dobson-was destroyed in 2002 and could not be repaired.
People sitting on benches around the square
The third Thursday morning, including me.
Only its former home now, an abandoned metal base.
However, I don't look at the sculpture or the base of it.
I am looking for something else to document the area's unique place in British history.
This is where Malin, the world's first fish and chips shop, was founded in early 1860;
Before the square arrives on 1963, this is the north end of Cleveland Road, where Marin is in the first place. 78.
There are some competitors, of course, but it seems to be the most likely origin of the iconic British cuisine.
Panikos Panayi, author of the book fish and chips: History, told me at the office of the University of de Montfort, Leicester: "I really can't find any alternatives . ".
"In a sense, I do not see any reason not to believe it;
On the other hand, the fish and chips store will not take off until the beginning of the 20 th century.
I couldn't find a lot of fish and fries between Malin's and the time.
"I am happy to accept Marin's statement in uncertain circumstances.
However, Frank Dobson Square does not offer much encouragement.
A group of floating pigeons
Supermarket, a digital billboard to congratulate racing driver Lewis Hamilton on his recent victory;
It has all these.
What's wrong with fish and chips? Nope.
Things are different in other parts of the city.
Despite the arrival of takeout, fried chicken shops in India and China, and the emergence of London as an avid self-image
The confident "foodie" city, the capital of the UK still has a lot of chips.
As a lifelong devotee, I decided to look for the best --
And, between the dull saltand-vinegar-
I will learn more about its history, its ingredients and its unique status in British culture. First, history.
Frank Dobson Square is only a few minutes' walk from the center of London's most charming neighborhood White Church (Whitechapel), which has been a continuous wave of immigrants for the past few centuries.
It is now the center of the largest Bangladeshi community in the UK, but in the middle
19 th century and World War II, this is the Jewish London, a "shtetl" called the white church ".
That's why fish and chips are here.
Or at least the fish portion that Jewish immigrants have given to Britain. (
The origin of the chip is more opaque, but France seems to be the most likely. )
"Fried fish is definitely Jewish," panai said . "
All the evidence proves this.
When I was working on the book, I found a lot of references about the Jewish fried fish pot, both men and women.
"In fact, until the end of the 19 th century, the taste of fried fish was a common-
English flash metaphor
Malin's may not have been there for a long time, but there is still good food in the white church.
Walking all the way east from Cleveland, along the Mile End Road and the White Church Road, is full of temptations.
The white church Market is located between Heath Road and Valance Road, Cambridge, 500 away. Its products include
Value Box for Mango, coriander and fist-
The size of ginger.
Then there are three sweet shops, one row, selling bright-colored snacks like jalebi (deep-
Fried batter soaked in syrup), gulab jamun (milk-Based on dumplings)and ras malai (
Cheesecake).
In the Panshi restaurant in Bangladesh, the window is filled with attractive samopp.
This is the fertile soil.
The Salvation Army was established on 1865,
Here, in the office of a former brewery, man, Crosman and Paulin sit next to the Blind Beggar's bar, where the East End mob Ronnie Clay carried out a notorious one on 1966.
When I walked by, a group of red --
The brightly lit pupils are drawing sketches.
Religion is as eternal as food.
Outside the White Church station, a missionary who claimed to be an "open air mission" was asking passers-by.
"My Bible tells me that God puts a living soul on you," he told a man . ".
"Right, sir?
God created you in his image?
"I turn left onto Osborne Street, which leads to Brick Lane.
Lunch time has passed.
At the corner of Hanbury and the commercial street, I found Poppie, one of the newer chips in the city.
I would love to try it because it is part of an unusual small chain;
Most English fishand-
The chip store is independent.
Inside, Poppie is a mix of traditional and harmless ersatz.
There is a huge frying area in the main room;
The shiny steel staple in the fish and chips shop is the place to cook food and sometimes store food.
It is common to sit in the glass compartment of your eyes and see a series of items that have been cooked, such as fish and shabby sausageslevel.
The wall is a photo of the old East Side, a cartoon of famous characters (
Including Churchill, of course)
Old ads, badges, front pages of newspapers, and a strip containing the translation of London rhyming slang.
However, it is very unreliable.
I ordered the classic COD in southern England. (
Northerners prefer Hardock
A friend of Grimsby, the northern fishing village, told me that cod was a "bottom --
"That's why they sent it elsewhere. )
It's a small side,-cooked -
Crisp and crisp batter, moist and fresh inside.
While the chips are a little pale for my taste, the slight buzz of happiness suggests that other diners do not agree with my reservation.
That's the way fish and chips are, and I have plenty of room for one day.
Since Friday is the day to eat fish and chips, it is appropriate.
For example, at my son's elementary school, Friday's lunch always served it, while my local rock of Chico Brockley was waiting for their weekly treat at the seams by five o'clock P. M.
Many of the best chip stores such as Brockley's Rock are located outside the city center;
After all, this is a home-cooked dish, not a premium dish.
No one has a better reputation than Olley, who has just been in 10-
Top national shortlisted for the National Fish and chips Award of the year.
This is a better and better Mountain in Heen-to-
Near South London;
Just after one o'clock P. M. , I was hungry.
Obviously, if Ollie's interior --
With its rustic brick walls and wooden interior windows-
It is special in extreme cases, and then the food sticks to the best tradition.
Harry Niazi, who opened the Ollie restaurant in 1987, is a man of quality.
He told me that the chips would be covered and then fried, "This gives a crispy crust outside to make them soft and fluffy inside . ".
Fish is sustainable;
This is all fried with sunflower oil with a little rosemary essence, which ensures the batter, Niazi said
It's simple to make with flour and water. isn't greasy.
Niazi, with a Turkish Cypriot background, is part of a great tradition.
Greek Cypriots have a prominent position in trade in the southern and central regions, while Italians have long been linked to Scottish cuisine; Chinese-
It is also common to run stores.
Not only did immigrants create fish and chips, they also did a lot of work to keep fish and chips popular.
However, few people can do it like Ollie.
The cod is moist, flaky, and the chips are cooked in crisp, golden color. Mushy peas -
More common on menus in the North
Accompanied by soft flavor.
Niazi, 55, buzzed in the room.
"When customers come in from that door, I want them to feel relaxed," he said . ".
"I want a smile on their faces.
Once you relax, it's like on vacation.
"Like on vacation, you end up eating too much. I take a 10-
It takes only a few minutes by train to London Victoria station to finish my hearty lunch.
And cream-frozen syrup pudding)
A long walk
I passed by a few interesting fish. and-
Chip shop on the road
For example, the Rock and Sole of Covent Garden, or the joy of Fryer in Holborn, his sparse 1960 interior is a classic of this type of charm.
Although this is a modern thing, this dish is also served in many bars.
Historically, bars are used for drinking.
United Chip opened in Clerkenwell earlier this year with a big fanfare to "shake fish and chips ".
"Alas, it has become a victim of complaints as old as the plate itself.
At the entrance of the restaurant there was a sign that said, "due to complaints from local residents, we had to close the store for the rest of the summer.
"It's autumn and the restaurant is still closed.
I am in a hurry because I want to go to another new store in particular.
Sutton & Sons, a small chain in east London, has just opened the capital's first vegetarian --
There's only one chip shop in Hackney.
Hackney, like many East London communities, is caught in a job-
Class tradition and the rapid rise of the middle class.
Here you will find two services offered by real estate agents
A million-dollar bedroom apartment-by-
Close to the workers in the cafe.
Vegetarian fish and chips are in between, I think, but not everyone believes.
When I approached, the two were in the middle.
The elderly woman bowling from Sutton and her son and one apologizes to the other: "I saw the sign and I think it will be ordinary fish and chips!
"I was not delayed.
Number of customers in this hole-in-the-
More importantly, the smell is encouraging.
There are three forms of "vegetarian fish" here ".
I ordered old banana flowers marinated with seaweed and marine vegetables samphire to take them away.
It was a wonderful surprise;
The taste is moderate, and the taste is not like the heart of the Thistle. the squeeze of lemon is very good.
Like a fish? Not really.
But it was delicious.
When I arrived at Hackney Central station to get my train home, it was all over.
I think, it's heartening that fish and chips retain enough cultural prestige to make the vegetarian version considered desirable and better yet it's so good.
I think the next step is for London to start celebrating this simple local dish --
I know where to start.
Frank Dobson Square has an empty base that can be done with a beautiful new statue.