photo-emulsion screen printing - draw on screen

Sometimes you need to communicate your message quickly and cheaply.
How do you print a ton of t-
Shirts and patches are fast?
How did I do it?
This note covers standard photos
The emulsion screen printing process is very useful for printing text or images with fine details. . .
In the end, you have your own person-
Design a completely unique print pattern on fabric, clothing, paper or anything you can see under the screen.
General Idea: fine after stretching-
Lay a layer of mesh on the wooden frame and a thin photosensitive emulsion on the screen to dry it.
Then, take a black image on a transparent or translucent surface, place it on the screen, and then expose the screen.
The light harden the emulsion and combines it with the fabric.
When the light shines on the screen, the emulsion is combined to form a layer of solid.
Where the light is blocked (
That is, the position where the black image is placed)
Lotion holding water-soluble.
After exposing the screen, you spray the screen down with water and wash the lotion only where your image is placed;
This clear area is where the ink will be pressed through the screen when printing.
Finally, you put the screen in your t-
Shirt, other fabric or paper apply ink on the inside of the screen and press the ink through the screen.
You can heat if you use textile ink
After the ink dries, it is set up so that it can be used permanently and cleaned.
There are already some great instructions on the method of screen printing on the website, but there is always more space.
I'm ready for this project
Screen and image printed in black on transparent film.
View screen printing: cheap, dirty, learn about making your own screen and using sun exposure photos at homeemulsion.
Threadbanger has an excellent D. I.
Y screen printing instructions including making the screen using the old embroidery hoop and putting the image on the screen using Mod Podge.
How to have a good photo overview on the screen-
Emulsion method.
What you need is: @ When I use the ready screen
Made a fast ball rack for this project, making your own screen is cheaper and not difficult.
Take a look at the great tips for making screens here and here.
@ Printed scraping or cardboard sheet with smooth, straight edges @ light milk and sensitivity agent using overspeed ball heavy nitrogen light milk and heavy nitrogen sensitivity agent;
The exposure times I listed later in this structure are for this formula.
If you use another type of photo lotion, be sure to read the instructions and test them to make sure you have the right exposure time.
@ Screen filler (
Again, I'm using standard fastballs)
@ Photo lotion (
Used to remove the emulsion from the screen for reuse)
@ Silk screen printing ink for cloth @ light table-or-@ light bulb (
At least 150 W, clear incandescent lamp)
, Light bulb socket with reflector, clip and wire. Useful things: @ pushpin (
At least 4 screens per screen)
@ Chopsticks, popsicles, plastic spoons--
For mixing and placing lotion and ink on the screen @ small paint-
Safety cup @ masking tape (water-
Best tape resistance)
@ Regular transparent tape @ large number of newspapers (
Keep everything else clean! )
@ Book or thick cardboard slightly smaller than your screen @ suitable for your t-shirts (
If you are printing a shirt)
Follow the instructions listed in your photo lotion.
For the fast ball photosensitive emulsion I use here: fill 3/4 of the heavy nitrogen sensitizer bottle with cold water. Shake well. (
The sensitizer is a black sludge at the bottom of the bottle, so a thorough mixing requires a lot of shaking and stirring with chopsticks. )
Pour the contents of the heavy nitrogen sensitizer bottle into the heavy nitrogen light emulsion container.
Mix until all photo lotions are in uniform color.
The heavy nitrogen photo emulsion was originally bright light blue.
It's a nasty black. green color.
After mixing, the enhanced emulsion should be blue-green.
Ideally, you would like to perform this mixing step and screen at the same time-
Coat the steps in a relatively dark room and shine the lotion with as little light as possible.
Additive emulsion can be stored (
According to the bottle)
Spend about 8 weeks in cool, dark places at room temperature (70F)
Four months in the fridge. First --
If you haven't, put a newspaper on your work surface.
Sometimes this step is relatively clean. sometimes everything I do is finally a green emulsion.
Because you flip the screen over and over again in the process, continue to put a pin in each corner at the bottom (flat)
One side of the screen.
This way you can flip the screen and set it to the bottom-facing-
Did not get the lotion to side down everywhere.
Also, if you don't have a scraper, you can use one and a half.
Flexible cardboard, as long as it has a wide, straight, smooth edge to expand.
Start at the bottom of the screen (flat)side up. Pour (
Or glop (as the case may be)
There is a thick emulsion line at one end of the screen.
Distribute it evenly across the screen using a scraper to form a thin layer.
Flip the screen and place it on four pins.
Pour another thick line lotion at one end on the inside of the screen and apply it evenly to the screen with a scraper.
Repeat the process until you cover a thin and uniform emulsion throughout the screen. (
This does not need to flip the screen more than a few times;
You want to work quickly to minimize the time when sensitive emulsion is exposed to light. )
Do the final expansion step inside the screen so you have a smooth surface for the ink to unfold later.
When done, set the bottom of the screen-side down (
Put it on the nail)
Dry in a dark place.
I usually put mine in or under a carton and in a closet or closed cabinet.
I let my sit all night, but point to it with a fan if you want it to dry faster.
The emulsion on your screen is photosensitive;
When it is exposed to light, the emulsion becomes hardened to the fabric and becomes water-resistant.
So, to put your image on the screen, you need a "front" of an opaque black image "(blocks light)
The transparent background allows the light to pass through and react with the light milk.
An easy way to do this is to make a black and white image with a graphics program, or draw it on a blank sheet of paper, and then shadow the image onto transparency.
I'm printing some patches for this project, maybe t-
Shirt, my picture is just plain black text.
I already included it.
PDF file I use when printing.
More ideas: You can even make a "grayscale" screen print, print the pure black area on the image and finally completely clear on the screen, the gray area is a pattern of a small black spot, it becomes a tiny clear space on your screen.
To do this, you still need to start with a fairly high
Contrast the black and white image and then convert it to a bitmap.
Resolution Test mode (
Love this classic RCA test mode)
Helps with calibration, and can also make neat screen-printed images by yourself.
Your screen is hidden in a cool and dry place, so the next step is to set up the exposure device.
A light box or light table with several fluorescent bulbs set directly under a translucent acrylic sheet, allowing for simpler setup
The exposure time is getting shorter and shorter, but it may take some experiments to figure out the correct exposure time.
Hey, there's even a note about making your own light table.
Depending on the intensity of the light you come out of the light box, your exposure time may be around 4 to 5 minutes.
The setup I used in this project was just a 150 W transparent incandescent lamp in a socket with long rope and reflector.
It takes a longer exposure time for a 150 watt bulb, but I don't think it's OK;
It gave me a chance to rest and let me have all the ink and fabric ready.
Settings: before fully accepting-
Dry screen out and assemble the rest of your exposure device.
You need some non
Reflective black fabric, a piece of glass or acrylic film large enough, a ruler or tape measure, bulb, socket and reflector.
Put both the bulb and the Mirror together and hang it up so that your bulb can reach 12 inch (
10x14 Screen)
Above the surface of the screen, centered.
Place the black fabric on the ground where the screen will be placed.
Have your imageon-
Clear Film and acrylic resin are ready, please check to make sure the direction of the clear film is correct.
Now that you are going to put the bottom of the screen up, then put your image and acrylic on it and you will place your image so that when you look at the bottom of the screen it moves back.
This is especially important for words! (
Think about it this way: you will put the ink inside the screen and press it to print.
So the image you see from the inside of the screen is printed;
So when you see the bottom of the screen, what you see should be the inverted image. )
Exposure: once the exposure device is set up, remove the dry, sensitive screen, center under the light, bottom-up. The black, non-
The reflective cloth should be under the entire screen.
Arrange the transparent film with the image at the bottom of the screen, then place the acrylic film on them and lay them flat on the screen.
Check if the distance between the bulb and the screen is correct.
Turn on the light, expose it in the right time, then turn off the light.
Since I was using the 10 "x 14" screen and the 150 W bulb, I exposed the screen for 45 minutes.
After the exposure is complete, remove the acrylic and clear film and rinse the screen.
The kit description for this step says "apply strong water spray (
Body temperature)
Both sides of the screen.
Do not use hot water.
"Powerful" seems to be the key word here ---
Even the unexposed lotion likes to stick to the screen fabric when drying and use a strong shower spray or spray
The nozzle on the hose seems to work best.
When you spray, you will see that the clear area is developing and your image blocks the exposure light;
Concentrate your spray in those areas.
You can rub the screen gently with your fingertips, but if your image has good details, you may lose some resolution by rubbing extra lotion on the edge of the image.
Lift the screen to the front of the light;
The mesh of the screen fabric should be completely clear and open in your image area.
If not, continue spraying.
Once your screen is washed out, let it dry completely.
Photo exposure of heavy nitrogen in speeding balls-
Emulsion system: 150 clear incandescent lamp screen size 150 W bulb height exposure time 8 "x 10 ". . . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . . .
45 minutes 10 "x 14". . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . . . .
"X18" 45 minutes. . . . . . . 15 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 hr.
16 "x20 in 14 minutes. . . . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 hr.
32 minutes 18 "x 20". . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 hr.
32 minutes BBA
1 exposure time 8 "x 10 ". . . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . .
10 minutes 10 "x 14". . . . . . . 12 inches . . . . . . . . . .
10 minutes 12 "x 18". . . . . . 15 inches . . . . . . . . . .
16 minutes, 16 "x2O". . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . .
20 minutes 18 "x2O". . . . . . 17 inches . . . . . . . . . .
First 20 minutes, pick up your dry screen and lift it to the light.
If there are fine holes or spots where the lotion is not exposed and washed out, cover with masking tape. (
Alternatively, for a more durable repair, apply a thin layer of screen filler in the fine hole or unwanted opening area to let it dry. )
Put on clothes you don't mind ink and make sure to put a lot of newspapers on your work surface.
This is definitely a chaotic step.
I found that with the help of friends, screen printing is much easier, especially when you print on the fabric.
In this way, one can press the screen tightly on the fabric while the other can apply the ink to the fabric.
Printing on fabric: I used speedboat or Versatex textile ink when printing on fabric.
It is a good idea to test your ink on the fabric to make sure it is attached and heatedsets properly.
If you're printing a new t-
Shirts or clothes must be washed first.
Discarded fabrics and residues from fabric stores are excellent materials for patching.
You can also pick up the blank t-
Shirts, vests or other basic clothing for thrift stores.
Print on t-
Shirt, you will want a cardboard or newspaper to put in the shirt so that the ink does not flow all the way to the other side.
I usually also put a book or piece of cardboard under the fabric that is a little smaller than the screen, so that the screen can be pressed tight on the fabric.
To find out which printing technology is best suited to a particular screen, ink, and fabric, some experiments are required.
For these prints, I put the fabric on a piece of cardboard, then put the screen on the fabric and let my friend hold it down.
I put an ink bead on the screen and then use my scraper to pull the ink off the screen at an angle of about 45 degrees.
If it looks like I don't have enough pressure or miss some areas, I will print the stroke again without moving the screen.
My results are not perfect, but a set of patches can be worn with a shirt, bag or something --else.
Other tips and tricks: before putting the ink on the fabric, you can make a "flood pen" to spread the ink across the screen.
To do this, you need to have your friend lift one end of the screen off the table.
Put a drop of ink on the edge of the screen closest to you.
Use the scraper to disperse the ink into a uniform layer through smooth light.
Let your friend put the screen firmly on the fabric, put your eraser on the other side of the ink bead you just passed through the screen, pull it hard to you, or even pressure. (
Similarly, the scraper is at an angle of about 45 degrees from the screen. )
The ink I use in this project is very old, so they don't flow as much as I think.
Ideally you want your ink to be smooth and smooth-
You can add some ink base made by Speedball or just add a few drops of water.
Printing on paper: this process is almost the same as printing on fabric.
I found that when printing on paper, the "flood stroke" technique is more useful than printing on fabric.
I still use a little bit of cardboard under the paper a lot so I can rock it down more firmly with the screen, but it's not necessary.
Different types of paper use different inks, so try and see what works. Heavy, porous-
Surface files tend to work well.
The light paper often twists and folds under the ink, and the smooth paper does not absorb the ink well and is easy to apply.
Change ink: If your print has started to blur since there is ink at the bottom of the screen, or if your ink starts to dry on the screen, or, if you have just prepared a new color, it's time to flush the screen.
Remove any masking tape on the screen.
Put it under a spray of warm water until the ink is all washed off and dry it.
Point the fan to the screen, or place it a little easier, and it will be much faster to do so.
Once dry, you can put the masking tape back in the area you don't want to print, and then re-print!
Clean up: once again, make sure to rinse all the ink off the screen after it's done.
The dry ink on the screen blocks it and prevents the ink from going through the next time it is printed.
Wash the plates or brushes you have used before the ink dries.
Close your ink container.
If you still have a photo lotion, make sure it's stored in a cool, dark place.
If you have finished your screen and know that you will not print anything with it in the future, you can remove the lotion with a fast ball lotion remover.
Follow the instructions on the bottle.
Wear gloves and know that it takes a lot of hot water and scrub to clean the screen.
Heat Set your print: after the ink is completely dry on the fabric, set the iron on the maximum dry heat required by the fabric.
Place a light cloth between the iron and the printed fabric, then place the iron on each side for 3 to 5 minutes. (
I found that I really don't need an extra piece of cloth if the ink is completely dry.
Just in case, I also tend to get hot stamping for at least 5 minutes or more. )
Finishing: For patches, I usually do quick twists and turns or overlapping stitching on the edge of the patch to prevent the patch from wearing out.
Check out the "how to patch clothes" instructions for how to safely place patches on clothes/bags/anything.
If you print to t-
You can wear shirts or other clothes. you can go.
Enjoy your unique wearable art. . .
And, according to what you print, make a statement at the same time!