projector led lamp 100w - projector lamp

Convert the projector in my case (Sanyo PLV-Z1)
From classical lights to LED light sources for 100 w led matrix and led matrix itself, I ordered them from ebay.
The original light fixture and power supply for the LED is about the same size in my projector, so it's relatively easy to integrate it directly into the projector box.
Connect the power supply directly from the switch of the lamp cover.
The 100 w led array releases a lot of heat, so it must be installed on the radiator to dissipate heat.
I initially tried to install the radiator to fit in the specified slot without affecting the projector lamp shell, but simply, the radiator does not have enough space to dissipate all the heat generated.
So I actually cut the projector housing so that the cooling radiator can stay outside the box.
I also have to adjust the bottom of the radiator a little so it can get into the light room.
The lamp temperature sensor must be removed.
Then, after applying a thin layer of hot paste, install the LED matrix on the base of the radiator.
Since the mounting holes do not match the led matrix, I used a small radiator on the back of the main radiator.
Then I put the optics (
A plastic reflector and a lens that helps focus the light to a point).
They are also on ebay.
I then bind the light to the projector box with two textoscope pads.
I connected the two textoscope plates with screws to the existing holes in the lamp comparison and drilled some new holes directly into the projector lamp shell.
I identified the power supply of the motherboard in the projector scheme (+ 16V)
I feed it back to the fan speed control module based on the thermal resistor (custom made).
If you don't want to build a regulator yourself, you can find and buy this regulator for the CPU fan.
This regulator can't be placed in my projector box, so I added a small box to the radiator board.
To fool my projector, the lights are already there and I have to shorten the pins 1 and 2 of the cables returned from the original balast.
You can keep the cable at a distance from the original ballast, cut and connect the two wires.
This step is necessary in order for the projector not to enter the lamp failure mode and turn off automatically.
The Led in the status of the lamp remains red but does not affect the operation.
From a projected distance of about 150 cm, you can get a decent picture with a new light about wide.
2 metres in absolute darkness.
I can't test it on the projection screen and can only test it on a white wall.
On a dedicated projection screen, the quality must be better.
When I get a copy, I will explain it in detail.
After some testing, I saw that most of the light was wasted in front of the focus mirror head, so I decided to build a reflector in front of it.
I remove the mirror from the old flash and adjust to fit the lens.
It's not big enough to get to the projector's optics all the time, so I made a ring with a spray pot cover, covered it with aluminum foil, and then glued it to the flashlight reflector with adhesive.
All of these are placed on the top of the lens with two springs.
So now guide the light inside the projector to escape from the side of the lens.
I still have some light going through the edge of the lens, and the new reflector is located at the top of the lens, but I will accept the idea before I get another idea. Update 2014-09-
29 unfortunately, the material of the flashlight mirror is not good enough and deteriorated due to the heat accumulated in the glass lens in direct contact with it.
The reflector between the Led and the lens is not affected (better quality).
I will try to make one with aluminum so the projector fan can cool it easier.
After the previous top reflector failed, I decided to build another reflector that exactly matched the lens size of the condenser (40mm)
The opening of the first lens in the projector optical system (50mm).
First of all, I did a precise cone design in freecad.
The material used is aluminum foil in the beer can.
You can make cones with any novel reflective material, but I decided to use something easy to find and cheap.
The cone is processed perfectly and works better than before, because it matches exactly with the projector optical system and therefore loses less light.
Since we use aluminum, the heat is no longer a problem as it will be scattered over the cone and more easily cooled by the projector fan.
Update 10/7 month/2015: even after the new reflector is in place, I am still not happy with the amount of light generated by the projector.
So I guess my led matrix beam has been distributed more evenly, so I don't need the entire assembly of the lens that is trying to make corrections to distribute evenly across the screen.
I'm looking at the optical system of this particular projector (
The structure of many models is similar)
I found 2 integral lenses there, and some metal plates that had space before the second integral lens and prism.
First I try to remove only the integrator lens and the metal plate.
The result is a higher brightness, but there are some vertical stripes on the screen because the light passing through the prism has not been corrected by the metal mesh before.
I removed the Prism too.
This is used to separate the colors in the white light before hitting the mirror, which is used to actually split the light.
After removal, the picture gets even light on all surfaces (
No shadow on the edge)
As far as I know, the color is not affected, but the brightness is higher.