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This article describes how to get your Samsung printer to work again without making a big fortune for a new imaging device.
If you just want to know how to do this, jump to the next step and the rest of this step just explains how I solved the problem!
Please note that this is for my CLP-
The 365 w printer, but it may also be suitable for other similar Samsung models.
It certainly works for any printer that uses CLT
But I suspect they all use a similar technique to reset the page count.
Story: Samsung has produced a series of very good home laser printers for the family, they are also very cheap.
However, they make money in some cunning ways.
All consumables for these printers (
And Image Drum)
It needs to be replaced when the device tells you otherwise the printer will not be able to print.
So even if the toner cartridge is filled manually, the printer will still "think" that it is empty and will refuse to print.
I won't introduce manual Toner filling here, but there are a lot of guides around.
Another "consumable" on these printers is the so-called "imaging unit ".
It is an essential part of any laser printer to transfer ink to the page during printing.
To be fair, this component is consumable and it will eventually wear out resulting in page blur or stripes etc.
These Samsung printers have a print "odometer" that records how many pages are printed using the current imaging unit.
They also have a hard-coded life of about 5000 pages built in (i think. . . ).
So once we click on this page to count, the red light of death will light up on your printer and we will get a lovely message that says "warning, prepare new imaging device ".
At first I thought, "Ah, it's okay, it's just a warning, I'll keep printing until it really needs to be replaced "--wrong.
The printer will not print anything until you change the imaging device.
I looked at it online. wow £75! What a rip off!
The cartridges for these things cost bombs (
I have just paid so far but I may start recharging soon)
But I think this is starting to accept p * ss!
I decided to take out the imaging equipment and check it out.
Surprisingly, it looks perfect with no flaws or marks, and almost no dirt (
I don't know what it looks like to be fair, but it's brand new to me).
Also, the page printed before this is perfect as there has never been any sign of degradation.
Google's quick search shows that many places offer you a "reset chip" of around £ 15 with instructions on it, just like magic, you just expand it, insert it into the imaging unit and close the lid, taadaa!
The printer "thinks" you bought a new imaging device, a happy printing device.
I was about to punch in the number, but then I watched the teaching video and looked at it carefully and I could see that this "reset chip" was actually just a 30 p resistor stuck to a piece of plastic.
The cunning thing is that all the photos and videos of these chips seem to show that it is covered with black paint, so you can't see the colored ribbon on it.
Of course, they 've covered this up and they don't want their little secrets out!
Sorry guys, I know your game!
These guys are almost as bad as Samsung, wrapping up a 30 p resistor for sale for £ 15!
After some research, I found out how these things work.
The imaging unit has a small removable plastic housing with 2 resistors, 1 200 k ohm, and 1 much weaker 56 Ohm fusible type resistor.
When it is powered on for the first time, the printer detects a low resistor.
The printer blows the current through the drum unit and the small "fuse" resistor.
From now on, when the printer turns on the power, it only detects the 200 rester, so it knows that this is not a new drum, so from now on, the printer will count all the printed
2 years later, we pressed the magic number and the printer stopped working because it "thought" the drum was no use now.
So you go out and buy a new drum with the same two resistors in it and only the smaller one does not blow.
You plug it in and the printer sees the low resistance again and it knows there is a new drum so it will reset the number of pages and then blow the new fuse and repeat the loop.
Now, if we don't buy a new drum unit and replace the fuse instead, we can "trick" the printer and make it think we have a new drum unit. Simple.
This is exactly what the 15 kits are doing, they are just a new 56 Ohm fuse resistor that you can attach to the terminals.
Turn on the printer and find the imaging device.
On my printer, it is at the bottom below all toner cartridges.
The notification in front of the imaging unit is a small black plastic case with 2 copper terminals on it.
It looks removable, indeed!
Pry the fuse case out as soon as you find it.
I used a small flat screwdriver.
Now be careful not to spoil anything.
Look inside the fuse case.
It will have one or two resistor components.
The old article and the guide show it has two, but only one of mine.
I guess it doesn't need a fuse when it's first made because the number of pages is already 0.
Samsung stopped the factory installation of the second resistor at some point.
Anyway, it will definitely have a resistance of 200 ohms and an optional fuse of 56 ohms.
You can remove the fuse resistance if you like (
If it can be identified).
However, it doesn't matter if you put it in place.
SOURCE a replaces the 56 ohm resistor.
I purchased the standard resistance instead of the easy melt resistance. (
This way, I can reuse it multiple times to reset the page count. )
You should be able to get resistance from RS or Maplin (
Radio Shack in the United States? )
About 30 p, or you can order one online.
Hell, you might rescue one from a broken electronic device.
In fact, some have reported DIY fixes using 47 ohm resistors
So if you do try to save one, it may just be that you need a very weak resistor instead of a 56 ohm resistor.
We need to put the new resistor in the case of 200 k Ohm and power the printer on.
I think you can weld it permanently, which basically resets the number of pages each time the printer is turned on.
But this is designed to be a fusible resistor and it will explode, so if you do, I don't know if there is any concern about overheating of this component.
In my case, I just roughly bumped it into the shell and wound the leg of the assembly around the existing shell to form a connection.
The resistance of blue in the figure is 56 ohms.
Now plug the fuse case back in and power on the printer. Taadaa!
It will take a while, but it will reset and the red light will go off.
Congrats, you just bought a new imaging device for 30 p.
If this does not work for you, please try the following :-
Double check if your new resistor has maintained correct contact with the existing resistor
Make sure the leg of the Assembly does not double and short. -
Make sure the resistance is the correct value.
If you have a Samsung printer of different models, you can try a different resistor.
I don't think you will do much damage here, you just add a small amount of extra resistance.
I then turned off the power of the printer and removed my 56 Ohm rester in case there was any problem with leaving it.
I will keep that bad boy and I may need it again in two years; )
Please note that your imaging unit will really need to be replaced one day (supposedly).
But if your unit is still working as I am, then keep applying this little trick.