world first! diy real 4k (uhd) beam projector - projector

Hi all.
I would like to share my latest product: DIY "real 4 K" Beamer.
4 k means the resolution of "3840x2160 (called 2160p)upto 60Hz.
Why am I going to make this little 4 k beer? SO?
I have already started this small project.
I did a lot of experiments to save your money (tests)
Not you.
With my AutoCAD drawing file and this instructions, you can make this 4 k beamer very easily.
I hope this instruction is helpful to people who want 4 k beer.
It's been a year since I had a plan to make a 4 k beer.
Try 15 for the first time.
4 inch 4 k LCD because there are several Taobao sellers selling 4 k LCD monitors.
However, there are many obstacles to the use of 15. 4" LCDs.
Finally, I can get 10 points.
1 "4 k LCD with proper drive board.
I tried to build my 4 k beamer with LCD and tested many lenses.
Fortunately, the painful experiment is worth it.
Satisfactory 4 k beer.
Let me review the final material Source: Obviously this DIY beamer has the following advantages and disadvantages: Advantages: limitations: Now, you can decide whether to make this or not! Let me start!
When I give you the final version of the drawings and materials, you can skip this step and the next step.
I just want to share how I found the final material combination.
This step is very painful because I have done so many tests with so many lenses.
Since the optical system is not perfect, the only way to find out the optimal material combination and the appropriate distance between the materials is to try it wrong.
It took me a few weeks to take this step.
Put materials, check the image quality, and make records. . .
If there is something new, I will do the same procedure to find out the best.
I use the linear motion guide to easily place the position of the LCD and fresnel lenses.
I found something useful in the test (? )
The information is as follows: Usually, the fine grooves on the fresnel lens will give you a clearer picture quality.
The best groove spacing I can get is 0. 1mm. I also test 0.
18mm slot spacing from several different sellers, and 0.
3mm pitch from three different sellers.
What I found is that every 0.
The 18mm slot tilted fresnel lens has the same defects in the same position.
I suspect there are some defects in the lens mold itself.
I can conclude that every 0.
The 18mm slot on Taobao is the same, not good.
If you use it, you will see dark areas projected on the screen (see the pic. )What about 0. 1mm vote for one?
The seller said 0.
The tone of 1mm, but I suspect 0 is the same. 18mm. . .
Same defect on same pos. So nothing. Luckly, 0.
The 3mm slopes from fresnelfactory and AliExpress are clean and the defects are invisible.
These two are the best choices.
I haven't tested 0 yet.
It is 3mm from optolife.
Com, you can try it if you are interested in it.
Remember Two Things when considering LED lights;
The small luminous area and the high power rateSmaller luminous area will give you a clearer picture as it becomes more similar to the ideal point light source.
Otherwise, you end up with blurry edges.
The lighting area of the traditional diy led light engine is quite large.
If you stick to it, you can't keep your focus perfect forever.
It only works when you do FHD or less
Distinguish the beam forming device.
The high power rate will obviously give you a brighter image.
Since the traditional LCD is very dark, you should have enough light power to penetrate as much light as possible.
In the meantime, you burn your LCD unless you cool it properly.
I tested several LEDs considering the above factors.
First, I tested the CBT. 140 (from Luminus)
The smallest emission area on the market (
Used in my 2 k beamer).
However, the rated power is only about 100 watts, so although the image is very clear, the brightness is still not enough.
Second, I changed to the 200 w led made by Taobao sellers that I mentioned without a brand.
It provides enough brightness in a dark environment, but I would like it to have a smaller luminous area to take a clearer image.
Fortunately, the Taobao seller told me that he could produce 200 w led, but it was smaller than the luminous area of the second LED.
As shown in the figure, the luminous area is equivalent to the CBT --140.
The brightness is satisfactory and the image quality is satisfactory. SSD-
90 engraved on the LED base, but not SSD-90.
Is a modified version of SSD-90, I guess.
You might wonder why I used this rectangle.
Poly lens.
In the traditionalDIY-
An optical condenser lens is used.
Yes, I tried the F78 condenser lens, which is commonly used in a 7-inch LCD with the f40 fresnel lens at the back.
The lens can also be used with a combination of 10. 1" (But 16: 10)
Rear lens with f140.
In short, I can't use combinations;
The F78 condenser lens/The fresnel lens after f140. the LED light does not fully cover the active area of the 4 k LCD.
In addition, 0 can not be found. 3mm (or less)
So, in the process of shooting, the quality is not good.
That's why I moved to the rectangle.
Poly lens.
This concentrator lens concentrates more light on the LCD, but the optical channel and focal length do not give the result of the resolution. So?
I should find out the best optical position through many experiments.
If it's too close to the rear fresnel lens, you'll see the yellow edge.
If it is too far, you will see the edge of blue.
At some point, the brightness is rather uneven.
The little devil made me stay for many nights in a few weeks.
The final lens position is quite far from our DIY.
Knowledge of projectors.
Anyway, don't worry, just use my drawings.
I just want to give you my experience in Lens and LCD spacing.
If the LCD is too close to the rear fresnel lens, then the groove will be projected on the screen.
If the LCD is away from the front fresnel lens, the image becomes blurry, especially at the edges.
However, if it is too close, then it is not continuous
Like the image, it is projected on the screen due to the groove on the front fresnel lens.
At the same time, the quality of the projection lens is also very important.
According to the rule of thumb, the focal length of the projection lens is selected within the range of the front fresnel lens of about 20mm.
So, the F240 would be good in this case.
However, this is not the only factor to consider (FOV)
Is another major factor in image quality.
Tested many projection lenses and I found that F260 gave me the best of them.
Yes, there are many variables.
So I did a lot of tests. Long preview (test)is over.
Let's start the real work now.
Design House (
Is the term Case more correct? )
I have to measure the dimensions of all the materials.
Usually I make mistakes at this step.
Save my arcryl (
Money too! ! )
I checked it carefully, maybe not three times.
To make it more beautiful, I made pikcacu (by scanning mode (
Can be easily carved out with a laser machine). Every 2 anyway
The 5pi hole is the point of making the M3 hole.
Each part will be made by M3 (headless)bolts. Ah!
There is an exception.
The legs are Bolt by M8 headless and "Velcro "(
Do not know English terms)
, You can change them according to your taste.
After each bolt tap, the shell parts must be bonded.
Put them together temporarily with adhesive tape and glue them with the "chloroform" glue.
Methane permeates the edge of the joint due to capillary action.
This step can be done easily. WHY?
The LCD is very fragile.
Since we are making beamer, we do not need a backlight unit (BLU)of the LCD.
The basic procedure is to be careful. That's it.
Then, put this part in a safe place.
Prevent dust.
You can ask the seller to cut the fresnel lens into a specific size.
Alternatively, you can cut it with a laser machine or an arcryl knife.
After cutting into specific dimensions anyway (
260mm x 155mm in my figure)
, Just connect it to the fresnel lens holder.
Please place it in the correct position using temporary hold zig.
This step is quite easy and direct.
The LCD and fresnel lenses will be held by the arcryl bracket given in the photo.
You can assemble and glue them easily.
In order to cool the LCD all the time, 4020 cooling fans will be installed on the side of the bracket above.
This part is not necessary, but it is important to me.
Yes, I made Pikcahu and red on the side of the projector.
Pixel art inspired me.
Nothing special. prepare 6 colors and attach them. Just do it. It takes time.
I like my design. Do you?
The procedure followed is quite direct.
Please look at the picture. Almost done.
Put everything in the right place and then wire it.
After everything is done, you should clean everything up.
By the way, HDCP 2 is not supported because the LCD driver board.
We should use the bypass tool.
I bought HDFury points in my case, but other cheap HDMI points itters work as well.
I don't know, but HDMI splitter usually breaks HDCP 2. 2 compliant.
Anyway, my setup works fine on Shield TV.
See the last step.
Due to the bad camera on my phone, I tried to take a photo of the PDF file and show you the image quality.
You can see the image quality at each location.
I should mention that I didn't put beamer in the right place at the time of testing.
The quality is great.
The weakest point, as I mentioned, is the brightness.
Please refer to the picture when the light is on.
It is not visible.
However, it is very satisfying in a dark environment.
Although the quality of the camera is not good, I also try to shoot the video (
The last video was tested on a google play movie, so not 4 k).
In any case, it is very satisfactory in reality.
In addition, the LCD driver board provides a variety of setting options such as brightness, contrast, gamma, hue, saturation, etc.
Therefore, you can calibrate the color space according to your choice.
These days I love Netflix with 4 k resolution and love my 4 k beamer.
I hope this instruction will help you.